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TeamRush 08-03-2009 07:34 AM

Problems Finding Correct Tie Rod Ends...
I'm putting a stock Dana 30 front together, and the tie rod ends are shot.

While I'm doing this, I though about making larger bars for the Tie Rod & Drag Link...

Anyone know of over sized Tie Rod Ends that have the correct taper for stock Jeep knuckles and pitman arm?

Bending thick wall tubing isn't a problem for me,
But I don't have a clue what Tie Rod Ends to us...
Someone mentioned a 1 Ton TRE that would work with CJ knuckles a while back, but I can't find the post!

If anyone knows the application, PLEASE let me know which one it is, and what the application/part numbers are!

sourpwr 08-03-2009 08:21 AM

Check out He has a tech page that lists the common Tre and sizes. I don't have the link handy or I would post it.


Rio_Grande 08-03-2009 08:25 AM

I have used the 70's blazer ends, but I want to say I had to ream them deeper to make good contact.

Good article with part numbers

4x4 Steering Index

Lots of Info there

bandhmo2 08-03-2009 07:19 PM

Late 70's and early 80's Chevy/GM 1/2 to 3/4 ton trucks used similar TRE's. They have a bigger tapered area then CJ's but use the same taper 1.5" per foot. The treads are 7/8"-18. 1 tons used the same taper but the threads where 1"-18. You can ream out the CJ knuckles and Pitman arm to the chevy taper but it is slow and the cheapest reamer I have seen lately was about $60. Taps are available to make your own links but they are not a common thread so you will need to order them (MSC has them) and the left hand tape is rather expensive. If you have a large enough lathe I suppose you could single point them but single pointing a long inside tread like that would be a pain. Some outfits do make weldable bungs that are prethreaded and can be welded to the ends of your tubes, but I hate the idea of welding something like that on a highway rig.

If you run relatively stock tires and have not had a problem with bending tierods I would just go with stock Jeep TRE's.

If you do want to go to Chevy TRE's the cheapest way is to just order a set of rodends and links from Partsmike. That is what I am going to do and a love to make stuff myself but the last time I looked it was like $250 for Partsmikes kit and when you add up the cost of TRE's and the tools needed to make the links you get way more then that.

TeamRush 08-03-2009 08:54 PM

I have all the tubing bending, thick wall tubing, and taps, both right and left I can screw up...

That's not the issue.

I need to know if there is a 'DROP IN' tie rod end with the correct taper,
Or if I'm going to shell out for reamer that matches a reasonable priced, heavy duty tie rod...

I know someone MUST have done this before,
I've seen articles on guys using 1 ton TRE's in CJ's,
I just didn't pay attention to them because normally when I do a custom front end, I just drill the holes straight and use Heim joints and get it over with.

In this case, Since I street drive this little Jeep,
I want to keep actual TRE's in it to keep the steering somewhat tight...

bandhmo2 08-03-2009 10:26 PM

All the stuff I have seen on running larger TRE's has been based around using the GM ones and opening up the knuckles and pitman arm. But there may well be other options for 1 ton TRE's.

You many look at TRE's from the newer GM's after they went to independent front suspension as they seemed to get smaller. A good, though slow and hit or miss place to lookup stuff like this is Napaonline. I do a lot of research there. I type in a make model and year and then look up the part in question, they give relatively detailed specs on most parts. I then create a spreedsheet with the information on the parts I find. Sometimes I find something that will work right off, some times I never do. But I save the information anyway in case I change plans or others can use it. Unfortunately my TRE plans are based on the common GM TRE's so I have not looked further, so I can't help much in your search.

For what it is worth all TRE's I have heard of are tapered at 1.5" per foot.

RRich 08-04-2009 12:16 AM

3/4 T Dodge truck - mid 90's to present - tie rod - if I remember right, the ends are bigger but the taper's the same. Plus the tie rods aren't tubing they are solid - really stout, and they are the right length too.
I put one on a YJ - customer provided it - I only had to bend it a little. Worked out slick.
For tie rods and drag links, solid makes more sense.
The drag link might be a different story, not sure, I didn't do that one.

Myself - I prefer Currie (theirs is a forging) - really stout, nearly indestructible -- but I broke one of those too. Pricey!

GoldToyBox 08-04-2009 02:23 AM

This help? some spec's and photos

Tie Rod and Drag Link End Identification

Jim_Lou 08-04-2009 05:42 AM

Instead of buying a $60 reamer, I had a tool sharpening shop grind a worn-out end mill to the 1.5"/ft taper. IIRC they charged about $20 and supplied the end mill. Only downside is that you do have to have a vertical mill or stout drill press to use it.

TeamRush 08-05-2009 07:16 PM

Thanks for the links and stuff guys,
I'm weighing my options and seeing what will/won't work while it's raining or 1,000 degrees around here!
(Dog Days Of Summer Are BACK!)

Since I don't, and wouldn't try to do a bunch of rocks with a D-30 in the front, I don't suppose I need anything huge, but I do want something more stout than I have!

(bent, straightened, bent, straightened, bent/broken, replaced, bent, straightened.... You get the idea...)

Anyway, I'm going to try to use something larger for this go around since everything is laying on the ground right now!


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