Now...THIS is a Rear Bumper - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 07-19-2009, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
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Now...THIS is a Rear Bumper

It has only taken me a year....but it's done.

While I would like to say I did it all....I can't. I made the main bumper....1/4" rect stock...3" x 6"....one of my buddies who has a metal fab shop did the rest....and a fine job he did....I won't have to wory about this thing getting loose.....

The bumper is attached to the frame with these 1/4" plates...Each one has 4 8 grade studs in them...welded on the back side. I mounted the plates to the rear frame...then put the bumper in place...tack welded it and then full seam welded it. The bumper is also an air tank so I wanted a minimum of holes in the tank.



This is what the bumper looks like without the tire carrier on.



One of the nice features Tom came up with is the locking bolt for when the carrier is open.....locks automaticaly...easy to release.



Here is another view with it open....even has a slick holder for the Hi Lift.



And one of the things Tom is most proud of are the gas tank holders....holds a standard NATO can nice and snug....the cages swing out to allow easy access to the spare....



I still have some work to do....I need to research some locks....some of the bolts need to be replaced with SS. And I need to beef up the rear leafs....this whole setup adds over 200 lbs to the rear....add two adults in the back and a typical trail load and the rear leafs are not going to like.

AKA DDawg16
84 CJ7, SOA, 5.7LTBI, 4L60E, 35"x12.5, 4.10 gears, F/Det, R/ARB, Full Roll Cage,
D44 Flat top in progress...
Link to my Frame up Restore
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 07-20-2009, 05:38 AM
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Now THAT's a Megafalator! Fine looking work there. Keep an eye on that upper mount to the body - I'm afraid it might start some fatigue cracks in the sheet metal.

EVERYTHING's easy for the guy who doesn't have to do it.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 07-20-2009, 08:43 AM Thread Starter
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Jim....what you can't see in the pic is the bracket on the other side of the top mount that ties it into the roll cage....Yep....we thought of that....

AKA DDawg16
84 CJ7, SOA, 5.7LTBI, 4L60E, 35"x12.5, 4.10 gears, F/Det, R/ARB, Full Roll Cage,
D44 Flat top in progress...
Link to my Frame up Restore
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 07-20-2009, 09:25 AM
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Good thinking! Did you allow for the relative movement between the frame and the roll cage, or is the cage tied to the frame?

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 07-20-2009, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
or is the cage tied to the frame?
It doesn't matter... If there's any clamping action between the body and the bumper/roll bar-bracket there will be body fatique if there isn't any free play allowed between the two.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 07-20-2009, 11:25 AM Thread Starter
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I guess I need to take a pic of the upper connection so everyone can understand....

The roll cage is bolted to the body (no frame tie in). In the rear the cage pad is in about the same spot as the old roll cage.....and on it is a coupling welded to it...then there is a bracket that goes from that coupling to the rear of the tub where the bracket on the outside. About the only way there will be any movement is if the bracket comes loose or the bolts between the cage and body come loose.

The Heim joint has about 1/8" total vert movement available on the bolt...

And then you have to consider that the pivot for the tire carrier is actually a trailer spindle.

We killed quite a few beers debating the need for the upper mount.....it's not there for vert alignment but rather to prevent the carrier from front and backwards....the frame back there is not stiff enough to prevent the bumper from rocking front to back....

As time permits I'm going to weld a couple of tabs on that will mount between the rear spring hanger and frame. And in looking at the pics I see that one of my spring hanger bolts is not tight...need to fix that.

Near the spring hanger you can see the 1/2" coupling that I will use to connect the air line.

But first I need to finish the garage...

AKA DDawg16
84 CJ7, SOA, 5.7LTBI, 4L60E, 35"x12.5, 4.10 gears, F/Det, R/ARB, Full Roll Cage,
D44 Flat top in progress...
Link to my Frame up Restore
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 07-20-2009, 02:05 PM
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Looks awsome... lets see some pics of the swing out lock. Mine looks similar but is starting to rattle.
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 07-20-2009, 02:26 PM
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Don't forget the faucets on the cans. At that height you should be able to drain 95% into the tank.
If you need the faucet locks, let me know I will find what I used.

Scott
1985 CJ7 T.H.O.R

"He brought me up out of the pit of destruction, out of the miry clay, And He set my feet upon a rock making my footsteps firm."
-Psalm 40:2
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 07-20-2009, 05:34 PM
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That is SLICK! Nice job!!!!

I'd hate to see a price on that one in a Q-Tec catalog.

Kudos's to all the thought in it. I love well fabbed up "homebuilt" projects. (yes I read you didn't do it all)

Good design
Great innovation
Great execution

What more could you want. (I think you could have sold this design!)

BUY MY CUSTOM STICKERS!!!!!!

((good women are REALLY hard to find! She buys me Jeep parts, never complains when I buy guns, Jeep parts,
And she makes GREAT sausage gravy!)TR
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 07-20-2009, 10:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepDawg View Post
I guess I need to take a pic of the upper connection so everyone can understand....

The roll cage is bolted to the body (no frame tie in). In the rear the cage pad is in about the same spot as the old roll cage.....and on it is a coupling welded to it...then there is a bracket that goes from that coupling to the rear of the tub where the bracket on the outside. About the only way there will be any movement is if the bracket comes loose or the bolts between the cage and body come loose.

The Heim joint has about 1/8" total vert movement available on the bolt...

And then you have to consider that the pivot for the tire carrier is actually a trailer spindle.

We killed quite a few beers debating the need for the upper mount.....it's not there for vert alignment but rather to prevent the carrier from front and backwards....the frame back there is not stiff enough to prevent the bumper from rocking front to back....
What you don’t seem to be understanding is that the frame twists and the body flexes. If you tie the two together, something has to give when they go different directions, and they will. The sheetmetal is the weakest link.

If you also intend to use it for an air tank, you should weld a sump at the bottom, in the middle with a valve to drain the water from condensation.

There are 10 kinds of people in the world.
Those who understand binary and those who don't.

Last edited by CJ7Taz; 07-20-2009 at 10:14 PM.
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