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post #1 of (permalink) Old 07-09-2009, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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Dana 300 yolk, what is your deal?

Before 17:30 today, I would have thought to remove a dana 300 yolk, I would remove the retaining nut and wack it a few times with a medium hammer. I smacked it with force for some time, to the point where I thought 1, this isn't working and 2, I'm going to F something up in the case. I put serious pressure to the yolk with a puller...nope. I did not use heat, I do not have a torch. I wonder if this (a torch) would have melted the seal (if I had a torch)? We have two spare 300s, I am thinking now It would be easier to swap the case, or may be the tail housing, assuming I could remove the yolk from one of those. I am trying to install a double carden and yolk from an XJ. I would love to get this buttoned up tomorrow. Any thoughts on removing this stubborn yolk?
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 07-10-2009, 12:23 AM
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From what I remember....it comes right off.....

When I swaped in my CV drive shaft, the new one came with a new yoke....I did the whole thing in the parking lot at work during lunch.....and still had time to eat...it swaped out that easy.....

Sounds like something is wrong.

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 07-10-2009, 02:03 AM
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I have never pulled the rear but all my drawings show it should come right off. I did pull the front once and it took a little persuasion with a hammer to get off. I did not care about the bearings as the reason I was pulling it was to replace them.

I would put the puller on it and tighten it up good then take some wedges of wood and force the yoke away from the case. Then hit the end of the puller bolt with a hammer. The wedges will help keep the hammer blow off the bearings and the puller will be easier hit then the yoke. Drive the wedges tighter after each hit with the hammer on the puller.


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post #4 of (permalink) Old 07-10-2009, 07:28 PM
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The big question here is...

Do you have a cheap tools store around you?
Do you have a cheap harmonic balancer puller?

Cheap harmonic balancer pullers work GREAT for pulling yokes off diffs or transfer cases when they are REALLY stuck on there.
(Use it like a steering wheel puller)

Mount it DIAGONALLY across two cap bolts,
Put pressure on it,
And give the yoke a smack with a hammer....
(Refrain from smacking the lead screw in the puller, but sometimes you just have to do what you have to do! )

Works great for pulling those pesky rusted on yokes without putting pressure on anything INSIDE the case,
And since you can pick up one of those large, cast pullers from Harbor Freight for about $10, it's a pretty good choice...

I carry one in my trail parts/tools box because I've totaled more than one yoke on the trail, and if there are Two Ears diagonally located left on the yoke, this thing will pull them!

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 07-12-2009, 08:05 PM
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Smile dana300

hi when you get a chance can you post more info on your project and maybe even photos.......double carden and yolk from an XJ. I am interested in doing this on the cj8 scrambler project thanks I also have the dana 300 transf case and a 4 speed in the scrambler now but still have the old light duty set up oem on the drive shaft.....
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 08:14 AM Thread Starter
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JeepWire.Com Presents: Do It Yourself Drive Shaft Basics

myscrambler1- the above has some pretty good info

I was able to grab the yolk with a larger puller, it resisted all the way off. I used an impact to install the XJ yolk (on the dana 300), it resisted all the way on. I'm sure I will regret this one day if/when I have to remove it, but for now, I'm up and running. I used the front shaft and yolk from an XJ, not sure of year. I believe it was about 34 inches before i cut it. I ground the weld from the slip side of the shaft (I wish I had spent a little more time here), cut the tube to length, and put it back together. I took about 1/2 hour eyeballing it every way possible before I tacked it. With the shaft in the jeep and the rear wheels blocked off of the ground, I could turn the shaft and used a dial indicator to check run out. Using a hammer, I corrected the run out to about 8 thou. I felt pretty good at this point, but when I finished welding, 8 thou warped to 40 or 50 thou. I do not know how to stop this. same thing happened on my homemade front shaft, although, I am not to worried about this one, as long as she holds up. I only drove it up to about 50 mph and somehow, noticed no vibration. I do have some concern about an undetectable vibe wearing internal part prematurely. In theory, simple project, as for welding, don't know how to combat deflection.

My buddy had a custom double carden and yolk delivered to his door for $230. Tatton's from Murray, Ut. 801 979 4908. No problems so far. At some point I may have to accept my homemade $50 shaft for a back-up and have one made.
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