Welcome to the madness that is 'Jeep Fever'...
I kind of specialize in the 'Orphan Years' of CJ, that would be '72-'75....
*IF*... It's still 'Factory',
Axles are what is called NARROW TRACK.
You will have a Dana 30 front axle with drum brakes.
The front axle will have Warn 'Lock-O-Matic' hubs that are often broken...
When working correctly, they will freewheel forward, but once the internal cage cracks (and they ALL do at some point) you will loose that ability.
(Common Warn Premium and Mile Maker premium lockouts will fit right on if your factory hubs are junk.)
You will have a Dana 44 Rear Axle with drum breaks and one piece 'Step' axles.
VERY strong rear differential.
(With some select parts, you can build the little Dana 44 to be nearly as strong as a Dana 60.)
Your axles will be hung on the early, NARROW springs.
Springs will be about 1-7/8" wide instead of later '76 and up springs.
Your springs are TOO SHORT (between 'Eyes') to swap in something like later CJ or YJ springs without moving the front axle backwards, and the back axle forwards,
Or adding 'Frame' to both ends.
You WILL NOT have a sway bar.
If you decide to add a sway bar, it will be VERY difficult to find spring/shock mounting plates that have the sway bar stud installed.
You WILL have a narrow (Skinny) steering column,
You will have a key switch in the dash, not the column.
You will have 'Flip Latches' instead of screw in handles to lock the windshield 'UP'.
You will have a Dana 20 Transfer case.
(Single shifter made of flat metal stock instead of round bar like the shifter or later Dana 300 Transfer cases)
Shift pattern will be, From TOP or all the way forward,
4 Wheel HIGH,
2 Wheel HIGH,
(no detent for 2 wheel low, but it's there between Nutral &),
4 Wheel Low will be all the way back towards the tail gate.
You will have a 3 speed transmission.
Reverse will be 'Left Upper'
(where you would expect 1st to be in a 'Normal' manual trans)
If it's still a factory trans.
You will have a 304 CID AMC V-8 engine.
You will have a Delco Remy breaker points distributor/ignition.
You will have a Prestolite (37Amp) or Motorola (42Amp) Alternator and they are interchangeable.
You will have an EXTERNAL voltage regulator.
You will have a Motorcraft 2100 Carb.
You will have the large, 'DOWNWARD' facing fuel pump.
If you have a hard top, you hit the jackpot!
Hardtops that fit correctly for the 'Orphan' Jeeps are VERY hard to find.
The frame is usually rusted out in the rear, or it's cracked on the inside just in front of the front axle on the passenger side.
I haven't seen a fan shroud for any '72 to '75 CJ, but I understand the factory actually produced one... Just never seen it.
The fan WILL NOT have a fan clutch.
Some common upgrades that will make the little Jeep more reliable.
FIRST AND FOREMOST!
Get yourself some decent seat belts!
The factory belts are 35 years old and MUST be replaced in my opinion!
Find someplace that can put a 'Halo' bar around the driver and passengers, and some front 'Down Bars' to the frame of the vehicle around the dash somewhere.
Buy a FIRE EXTINGUISHER (at least 5 pounds of dry chemical) and a comprehensive FIRST AID KIT!
Lots of guys run out and buy tires, or lights or something,
But SAFETY should be your FIRST PRIORITY!
Delco Remy CS 130 alternator.
Internally regulated, very strong charge even at idle, and it will fit right in your stock bracket with no alterations.
Wiring is three wires, two of which are already in place.
FRONT DISC BRAKES!
This is also very easy, just not as easy as the alternator...
Just find a Jeep axle with disc brakes, and strip off everything from the steering knuckles out,
It will all bolt right on your axle,
Then all you have to do is replace the master cylinder with one from the same year as the brake donor...
FRONT LOCK OUTS!
Again, Warn Premium or Mile Maker Premium lockouts (around $100 a set when you buy them off the internet)
Are MUCH stronger and more reliable than the factory Warn 'Lock-O-Matic' lockouts are.
If you intend to get 'Serious',
Then consider a front axle change to a narrowed D-44 out of a FSJ (Full Size Jeep),
Or even a Dana 30/44 hybrid from a Scout II.
The FSJ front has to be narrowed, but you can do a 'Standard' narrow size, and use 'Off The Shelf' axles to reduce costs,
And you can build the heavy Dana 44 to be as strong as a ball joint D-60...
The Scout II front end is a Hybrid,
Dana 44 center section, with small axle shafts like the Jeep Dana 30, and with small Dana 30 Steering knuckles.
With chromolly shafts and a good locker, it's MUCH stronger than a Dana 30,
And it comes the correct width to install in a CJ with nothing more than out-boarding the frame spring mounts.
Ignition Upgrade is VERY easy, and you have several options when it comes to upgrades,
Since all GM vehicles used the same Delco Remy distributor head design in Camaro and every other 'Muscle Car' for years, there are TONS of aftermarket support products for that distirbutor.
The current, factory distributor, Upgraded to electronic ignition, will suit you VERY well....
You can use the distributor from a later model AMC V-8 Jeep engine and putting together a very strong electronic ignition...
Try this link for what I did with mine,
Junk Yard Genius.com Kornfield Kruser Ignition Upgrade Page
Later upgrades to the same ignition,
Junk Yard Genius.com Dual Ignition Upgrade Page
Junk Yard Genius.com Dual Ignition Upgrade Page 2
The MC2100 carb is a pretty good carb for off roading, and if you decide to change,
I would change for fuel injection...
No real reason to change carbs since the MC 2100 does a good job for a carb...
Transmissions are another story,
The current 3 speed will do some pretty strange things if you drive it hard with the V-8 in front of it...
Find yourself a SM465, T-18 or T-19, or a NP435 4 speed,
Something with a 'Granny Low' if you intend on serious trails or 'Crawling'...
Dana 20 transfer case is just fine for trails and for highway use. Very strong, very reliable, and the best part,
You already have one!
If you 'Upgrade' go directly to something like an Atlas II, and skip over a Dana 300 if you are 'Serious'...
By the time you buy a Dana 300, get the super low crawl gears, get the case machined and everything installed,
You could have purchased an Atlas II and had 5 times the transfer case.
If I were an 'Occasional' trail rider and mostly highway, I would use a stock Dana 300 if something happened to my Dana 20, but personally, it's not worth the money unless you are going crawling, and then the Atlas is the 'Better Deal'
Love that rear Dana 44 axle, and it's REALLY hard to beat a Dana 44 in anything!
If you want to build for a 'Crawler' later, then look for Dana 60 or heavy Ford 9".
Everyone makes something for either and it all mostly works.
Feel free to ask for any help I might be able to provide,
I have a lot of experience with the Orphan years,
And I have a lot of experience with modifying/upgrading things so they work better/more efficiently.