Anyway, I checked centrifigual advance, nothing.
No vac line connected, the wife got the 6 up to 2k and there was no advance.
Something WRONG there,
You should have had about AT LEAST 5° to 7° come in, even with the later computer versions of the distributor...
With vac connected, it traveled, with slow R increase, fairly evenly up to I'd say 26*.
My scale ends at 24.
That sounds about correct...
Starting with 10° Initial, and adding about 15° of vacuum, you would end up with about 25 total or there abouts...
I can't imagine what is keeping the centrifugal advance from working...
Normally the centrifugal advance is bullet proof in the Ford type distributors!
GM HEI Distributors used to waste the advance weights in fairly short order, but Ford distributors chug along for ever without problems...
I haven't had the chance to disassemble the dist to see what is sticking, disconnected or broken, but hopefully will sometime over the weekend.
An issue I came across while checking the centrifigual advance, with vac line disconnected, was right around 1500RPM. The engine would stumble.
By this time, I had set the mixture screws to achieve best mixture, using a vaccuum gauge and propane at idle. So, when the engine stumbled, I shot propane down the carb throat and it evened out.
Too lean...Idle mixture screws are are used for just that, Idle...correct me if I'm wrong please.
So my original thought was too small of jets.
Did you do the screw the idle mixture screws 'IN' thing to see if the engine dies?
Then back them back out to make adjustments?
Main Jets have ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO WITH IDLE FUEL.
All idle fuel is metered through the idle mixture screws.
Your Main Jets won't take over until about 1,000 or 1,200 RPM,
There will be a transition over from idle mixture screws to main jets starting somewhere between 800 RPM and lasting to about 1,200 RPM.
The Accelerator Pump and Power Valve are there to help smooth that transition out as you switch from Idle circuits to Main Jet circuits in the carb.
Idle SHOULD be a little lean...
To fatten up the Idle mixture means you are wasting fuel!
(although I have to admit, I usually find the best vacuum,
then 'Fatten' up the fuel a little, just about 1/8 idle mixture screw turn on both screws, since I sometimes idle with my engine pulling in gear)
It was getting late at that time so I pulled the plug wires and distributer, just so I could have it ready for inspection when I got to that point.
Thinking more about the issue, and reading these posts, I am beginning to believe that it may have been jets because the ported vac line going to the dist that I disconnected to check centrifugal was not plugged.
Makes sense, air coming in from a point that does not have a say on the amount of fuel that gets metered with it. "Alien Air".
What you call 'Alien Air', we call a VACUUM LEAK!
So that issue may be just a cause of operator error on my part, or maybe I'll blame the wife. hehehe.
If you can't blame your wife, blame my 'Other Half'
Either way, I'll have to re-check that after I figure out the dist issue. Haven't yet checked spark or voltage at the coil/module.
What rich isn't getting a grip on...
There is a BIG DIFFERENCE between "Will Work",
And 'OPTIMUM PERFORMANCE' for any given set up...
Your coil WILL fire reliably with about 4 or 4.5 volts (E-core)...
It's only going to produce about 15K or 18K volts for the plugs (same as breaker points ignition with resisted coil),
But the spark will be RELIABLE up to about 2,000 RPM on a V-8 engine.
You want MAXIMUM OUTPUT from your Upgrades,
You need to FEED the ignition coil!
We are talking AT LEAST a 12 gauge, unresisted wire,
And preferably a 12 gauge that doesn't have two dozen wiring connections to go through getting to the ignition coil...
(Starter Relay Fusible Link to primary fuse block wire,
Fuse block, connectors to ignition switch,
Connectors FROM ignition switch, factory tach (if you have one),
Then bulk head connector, harness connectors,.....
You get the idea, one corroded, old, dirty connector, and suddenly the coil is starved for sufficient supply for MAXIMUM output...)
Taking the factory resistor wire out will gain you quite a bit of current to the coil,
Using a power relay instead of beating the power to the coil through the fuse block and ignition switch will gain you some,
Making sure you use the correct wire size will gain you some...
You get the idea! (even if some people don't!)
TR: That picture shows the weights and (basically)limiters, correct?
The Weights are clearly visible,
The return springs are what controls the movement of the weights as centrifugal force tries to pull them outward.
The slots are the limiting of the advance/retard of the centrifugal advance head that fits on the actual distributor shaft....
This is a centrifugal advance head off the distributor shaft.
CLEANED Distributor Shaft! (harder than it sounds!)
Centrifugal Advance Head Mounted On The Shaft,
Replacing springs and weights is a means of adjusting how fast/slow, sooner/later the ignition advances, given different variances.
It's the TOTAL spring rate,
NOT MATCHED SPRINGS that will get you the advance 'Curve' (on a graph) you are looking for.
Two heavy springs, one heavy and one medium, one heavy and one light, two mediums, one medium and one light, two light springs....
IT's the TOTAL SPRING PRESSURE...
I say again,
THE SPRINGS DO NOT HAVE TO BE 'MATCHED' PAIRS!
If a person were to replace the springs and weights, in a non high performance application, like mine, they would stick with stock weights and springs, right?
Springs I change without ever thinking about it...
And I haven't found any reason to change the weights on a Jeep distributor.
See, your distributor is optimized for EMISSIONS!
Not necessary for the best power for your vehicle!
I don't think twice about adjusting the centrifugal advance, no more than I do sticking an 'Allen' wrench in the vacuum advance and adjusting that for more power or smoother performance.
If so, where would that person find these stock weights and springs, short of a bone yard?
Not Napa, Autozone, or Oreillys, the local jeep dealer doesn't have them, nor can they order them.
Mr. Gasket, p/n 925D,
Also, any of the 'Discount' parts places,
Just ask for a spring kit for a GM HEI distributor, the springs are the same for both the Jeep/Motorcraft and GM HEI distributors with centrifugal advance.
The local ford dealer is in the same boat.
They all require the purchase of a new or rebuilt distributor.
But, I haven't inspected mine yet so I'm not sure if its broke as of now.
Dealers aren't going to have centrifugal or vacuum advance parts.
The last 10+ years of distributors haven't had either advance in them,
And most of the better engines don't have distributors anymore!
I'm gonna stick with my 7.5 PV for now.
PTC is at 10hg. 2 down is 8, so my options are 7.5 or 8.5.
I'll probably check out an 8.5 eventually, after I correct the distributor.
For a PTC of 10 In.Hg., about 7.5 is correct for off road/highway driven.
It will load the engine up on fuel when you are trying to 'Finesse' an obstacle at low RPMs, but still give you reasonable street performance.
BTW, I am currently running the TFI with HEI module set up. It's all wired up as per the directions given, with correct gauge wire and relay.
Then you DO NOT have a resistor in line if you are using a power relay for the coil power...
Then with a 0.040" or 0.045" plug gap and reasonable plug wires,
You are probably throwing 35K to 40K at the plugs under 2,000 RPM.
With the Ford E-core coil, you are probably getting slightly better saturations times (shorter time to full saturation),
So you are probably looking at around 2,200 or 2,300 RPM before the AMPERAGE and DURATION times start to drop off significantly.