Fabrication Ideas Needed to Cover Hole Over Sending Unit - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
Jeep-Short Wheelbase All discussion of short wheelbase Jeeps: CJ, TJ, YJ and JK

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of (permalink) Old 06-24-2009, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
Enthusiast
 
DuaneD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Boilermaker Country USA
Posts: 295
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Thumbs down Fabrication Ideas Needed to Cover Hole Over Sending Unit

What ideas would you have to create a hatch that would allow access through the bed of my Jeep to gain access to my sending unit when needed? I aquired a gas hatch cover designed for a Hummer that has a key lock built in. However, the need to mount this hatch cover flat on the top of the bed will allow debris to key into the lock, not allowing the key to get in to oen the hatch. Also, how can I flatten the ribs in the the bed around the hole opening so I can mate a cover to that will be in contact with the bed floor all the way around? I have attached a picture of the situation needing a cover. What ideas to you have. Thanks

1985 CJ with a transplanted 94YJ 4.0L motor, T176 tranny, mainly stock otherwise. ><>
DuaneD is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of (permalink) Old 06-24-2009, 11:16 PM
Veteran
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Fairbanks, Alaska
Posts: 757
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
My old CJ had a hole cut in the floor for access. It was covered with a simple 16 gauge sheetmetal square held down by about 8 screws. I can't remember what was done about the ribs in the floor. It was simple and worked well.

Wilhelm

I will start using Metric only when the duodecimal system is adopted!!
bandhmo2 is offline  
post #3 of (permalink) Old 06-25-2009, 01:40 AM
Veteran
 
TeamRush's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: So.West Indiana
Posts: 826
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
The PO overlaid the rusted out floor with flat metal in mine,
So the patch was Easy.

What I would do is two things,
First,
I would simply take a flat piece of metal and form in the ribs to match the floor, then cut it to shape (round, square, triangle, trapezoid or whatever!)

Secondly,
I would pop rivet it into place.
Pop rivet heads are EASY to drill out... Remove/Replace if you ever need to get into the sending unit again,
And they hold VERY well, are cheap and easy to use.

------------------------------------------

Will that fuel door you have stand up to the beating and banging that happens in the back of a Jeep?
Looks kind of flimsy to me.

Anyway, to make that fuel door match the surrounding profile of the floor, you are going to have to take a die grinder/sander to the sides...

It's going to be time consuming and slow, and if you screw up, you are going to scar up the 'Pretty' fuel door!
---------------------------

Anyway,
Tape around the hole with masking tape so you can locate the door right where you want it,
Then trace around it so you can locate that door in the same spots over and over while you are cutting the mounting flange to fit the floor profile...

Tape over the mounting ring of the fuel door so you won't scratch things up so easily and you can mark stuff like 'Witness Marks' and were material needs to be removed...

'Witness Marks' on the fuel door mounting flange to the tape will speed the relocation to see where you need to take material off...
A 'Witness Mark' is nothing more than a mark from your fuel door frame to the tape around the hole so you can line up the marks when sizing things up.

Lay the fuel door on the floor, and mark where the mounting ring needs to be cut away to fit the profile of the floor,...
Then start grinding/sanding/filing away until it fits the profile of the floor.

Don't forget to full the mounting ring full of epoxy or something so it doesn't dent up when something gets thrown on it or someone stands on it...
........................


As for the lock, you are going to have to remove the lock cylinder,
And remove the pins from the lock cylinder so you can open it with nothing more than a screwdriver...
It won't be a 'Lock' after that, it will be a 'Latch' with a slotted opening for 'Latching/Unlatching'...

With the pins removed from the lock cylinder, you don't have to worry about crud getting into the key hole...

So Many Cats, So Few Recipes...
TeamRush is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of (permalink) Old 06-25-2009, 05:36 AM
Moderator
 
Jim_Lou's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Belleville, Illinois
Posts: 11,485
Thanks: 15
Thanked 22 Times in 17 Posts
         
Yeah, I wouldn't use that. It's pretty, but not really practical. Stuff will get caught on it, it'll get scratched and banged up and look like crap pretty soon. The formed piece of sheet metal and Pop rivets is the best way to go. How often do you need to get to the sending unit anyway?

EVERYTHING's easy for the guy who doesn't have to do it.
B. Dash Fabrication
Jim_Lou is offline  
post #5 of (permalink) Old 06-25-2009, 01:05 PM
Veteran
 
TeamRush's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: So.West Indiana
Posts: 826
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim_Lou View Post
Yeah, I wouldn't use that. It's pretty, but not really practical. Stuff will get caught on it, it'll get scratched and banged up and look like crap pretty soon. The formed piece of sheet metal and Pop rivets is the best way to go. How often do you need to get to the sending unit anyway?
There, you have it from a (sheet) metal worker...
Does this stuff every day, all day long!

With Jim_Lou, I'm surprised he didn't recommend you use STAINLESS STEEL!

---------------------------

One other thing I would do before you button up that hole!
Take those connectors off and coat them with dielectric grease!
Fill up that boot until it squishes out when you push it on the connector, then wipe down the excess!

Moisture LOVES to creep into those boots and terminals!

I actually SOLDER/SEAL my connectors on before I install so the connections CAN'T draw moisture and rot out!

Since you can't really solder around a FULL gas tank,
You should settle for grease and/or that liquid electrical tape stuff...

So Many Cats, So Few Recipes...

Last edited by TeamRush; 06-25-2009 at 01:08 PM.
TeamRush is offline  
post #6 of (permalink) Old 06-26-2009, 05:01 AM Thread Starter
Enthusiast
 
DuaneD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Boilermaker Country USA
Posts: 295
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Thanks guys! Sheet metal it will be I just have had that gas hatch cover laying around for a long time I thought I might use it. I will pass on the hatch cover. Thanks for the tip on the use of dielectric grease for this application. Make it a Good Day.

1985 CJ with a transplanted 94YJ 4.0L motor, T176 tranny, mainly stock otherwise. ><>

Last edited by DuaneD; 06-26-2009 at 05:04 AM.
DuaneD is offline  
post #7 of (permalink) Old 06-26-2009, 08:34 AM
I Might Just Know What I'm Talking About
 
Raduckal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Owensboro, KY
Posts: 1,905
Thanks: 3
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
 
I wonder if you could cut a piece from a junkyard tub.

"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy."

Benjamin Franklin
Raduckal is offline  
post #8 of (permalink) Old 06-26-2009, 12:54 PM
Veteran
 
TeamRush's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: So.West Indiana
Posts: 826
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raduckal View Post
I wonder if you could cut a piece from a junkyard tub.
Around here, in the 'RUST BELT' you can't find a junk yard tub with the rear floor still in it!

This state salts the crap out of EVERYTHING all winter long!

So Many Cats, So Few Recipes...
TeamRush is offline  
post #9 of (permalink) Old 06-26-2009, 04:27 PM
I Might Just Know What I'm Talking About
 
Raduckal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Owensboro, KY
Posts: 1,905
Thanks: 3
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamRush View Post
Around here, in the 'RUST BELT' you can't find a junk yard tub with the rear floor still in it!

This state salts the crap out of EVERYTHING all winter long!
I bet you are within 50 miles of me.
And lots of rusted tubs around here still have decent metal in the bed area.

"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy."

Benjamin Franklin
Raduckal is offline  
post #10 of (permalink) Old 07-03-2009, 10:32 PM
Old Hand
 
jeepjunky's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 737
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
one way you could use the gas cap mount wold be to cut the floor larger thatn the cap, weld a piece of flat plate in its palce then mount the cap to the flat plate.
jeepjunky is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome