installed new shoes and drums on the rear amc 20.

they are installed correctly and the adjusters are all the way in, the drums can be pushed over the shoes but are extremely tight. with the wheels on it is very difficult to rotate. same issue on both sides
i can not adjust the rear breaks to the proper setting because the adjusters are already in as far as they go.

suggestions? should i have the drums turned to make them fit properly?

i also replaced the calipers and pads on the front dana 30.
cylinder is still compressed. should the calipers wiggle after being torqued down?

thanks dave

Something isn't exactly correct on the rear drum brakes if they are "extremely tight" with the adjusters bottomed out.

How about the e-brake? It is released isn't it? Cables are not just frozen up like mine typically are when I have to work on them?

Are you sure that you have the correct shoes? Maybe look alike but a different diameter? Can you compare them with the old shoes to be sure?

The front should be good... The caliper will adjust as you step down on the peddle.

Kind of rambling but I hope that helps a little.


Dale

FINALLY!
A 'Jeep Tech' question on a 'Jeep Tech' forum!

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Nope, don't turn the drums unless you have rust where the shoes should be hitting.

See, when your drums wear, the edges of the shoes wear down, and allow your drums NOT to get worn where the edges of your new shoes are now rubbing.

*IF*...
You go out and pump up the brakes good and solid,
that will force the front pistons out,
And it should 'Square' up the rear shoes with the drums.

*IF* a good solid pumping DOES NOT free up the rear drums some, then you might have a real 'Issue' back there someplace...
New shoes wearing on sloping wear patterns inside the drum,
New shoes in the wrong place, or with the wrong shoe 'Forward'...
or the adjuster is rusted up and you don't have it backed off as far as you though you did...
Rust in the wheel cylinder not letting the top of the new shoes pull in far enough.
Stuff like that.
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As for the front,
Simply pressing the brake pedal a few times,
Pumping the pads/pistons back out into contact with the rotor should solve your 'Wobble' problem...

Remember, that caliper is designed to slide back and forth as you wear down pads, and then install new ones...
So it DOES move around some.
If the movement is excessive, you may have left out a part of the wedge and spring that keeps the caliper tight...

Try this diagram and see if you can account for all the parts being in the correct location...

well all i have to work with now is a rolling chassis, ill make a note about the rear brakes.

i dont think the movement in the front calipers is excessive. but i also don't have a support key, support spring, or retaining screw. i dont recall ever having those. i have two bolts holding the calipers to the brackets and the anti rattle clip, thats it.

ill have to take a look this evening and compare what i have to my haynes manual.

oh, and its an 83 CJ7, should have started out with that.

thanks

You have GM-style calipers (held on by and slides on threaded pins) as opposed to the earlier model Bendix stuff pictured above...

It's been my finding w/ most discs that you will get *some* lateral movement after reinstall *before* everything has been pressured/bled and the piston is snugged.

thanks for clearing that up

put this problem on the backburner, finally figured it out though.

the brand new drums, from auto zone were warped, 2 different sets.

napa got it right first try.