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post #1 of (permalink) Old 05-16-2009, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
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Oil pan gasket

Ok, What am I doing wrong???

I replaced the gasket on the 258 a few months ago with one of the 3 piece sets and it leaked terribly, So yesterday I finally changed it with one of the solid rubber gaskets. I took it for a ride today and it's still leaking! :/
I used a minimal amount of silicone at the 4 corner spots as suggested in the gasket instructions.

I am hoping to be able to reuse this gasket I'm thinking maybe the rubber loop that sits between the pan and the bearing cap didn't get lined up quite right. ?

Anyone have any advice, info or insight?

Thanks

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 05-19-2009, 10:23 PM
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First it's just a pain to replace the pan gasket while the engine is in the Jeep. You have my sympathy because I only remember it being a pain.

Resist the urge to over tighten it. Use a 1/4" drive ratchet with a long extension and don't change the setup except the socket (two size fasteners).

Each fastener needs to have equal torque... None tighter or looser than the other.

I'm sure that there is a torque spec... Don't know what that is but it would be a few inch pounds.

I think that I chased the threads with a tap and used compressed air to clean them out before I re-installed. Put a rag or towel around the air nozzle so that the crud goes into the rag/towel and not the engine.

Come to think of it... Seems like I spent more time just cleaning than anything else.

Use a bit of sealant on each fastener... You could use locktite.

Good luck taking it off and starting over... Double pain.


Dale

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 05-19-2009, 10:50 PM Thread Starter
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Dale,

Thanks for posting!
Was starting to think my question was too stupid for a reply. LOL
I have been working on vehicles all my life but this gasket has got me mad.
I plan on tearing it back apart probably tomorrow or Thursday. I am hoping I can reuse it, I didn't torque it too much so it should be ok. :/
I think I'm just gonna run a 1/8 bead of silicon on the pan then set the gasket on it let it set then put it on the engine.
Doing it like that I don't see any possibility of failure.

Again any input is much appreciated!

Troy

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 05-19-2009, 11:11 PM
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Ultra Black Rocks!!!

My kids say "poop it up" to indicate using silicone sealant. Wonder where they got that idea.

It shouldn't take much sealant... The instructions are correct about the corners. Putting it on the fasteners seemed like a good idea to me.

Seems like I got to remove and re-install the pan on the 304 because I over tightened it... After it was back in the Yellow Jeep.

You are not alone in that you got to do it over.

Got off easy... Or maybe got lucky and did it right the first time on my junk when I changed the oil pump and timing set.

Had an old Olds that I crushed the oil pan... With a jack when it slipped off the cross member, go figure. Got lucky on that one too except for all of the crap I had to remove to get the pan off in the first place.

I'm sure that it will work out.


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post #5 of (permalink) Old 05-20-2009, 07:23 AM
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Are you certain it is not the rear main leaking? I would change it while you are in there. I would also check the rear of the valve cover. Sometimes oil will leak down the back of the head and dribble down by the rear main area.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 05-21-2009, 05:02 PM
 
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If you have to pull the pan again put it on a bench and use a straight edge to see how much warpage may have been previously done from over torque on the bolts. A common problem and easy fix to re straighten the pan. Alot of tranny shops do not even use a gasket on the pan...just a bead of silicone and proper inch pounds...usually 6-9.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 05-23-2009, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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Well, It's not the gasket! :/
Looks like I'll be doing it a third time to change out the rear main.
How hard a job is it?

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post #8 of (permalink) Old 05-23-2009, 10:16 PM
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It's not that bad of a job to do. Remove the oil pan, then remove the rear main bearing cap. The seal is a 2 piece split seal. The lower part of the seal is in the rear main cap. The upper 1/2 of the seal is where you have to be careful. The seal has a steel stiffner in it. Very carefully use a 1/4 inch roll pin punch to tap the old seal from this stiffner up and around the crankshaft. Two very important things to be careful of is, never touch the bearing surface of the journal with the punch, and pay attention to the direction of the new seal when installing it. Always lubricate the new seal with fresh motor oil. The newer service manuals tell you to install a very small amount of Mopar gasket maker to the lower cap near the corners. Because of this I would recommend looking at a service manual for the proper locations of the gasket maker. Mopar gasket maker is an anobolic sealer which dries in the absence of air. Re-install the lower cap and torque. I believe it calls for something like 80'/#.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 05-23-2009, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply dorfs.
I've been researching it and have seen to loosen all bearing caps, I didn't understand why that was needed but you say just the rear cap?
If so that sounds fairly straight forward and simple.

thanks again!

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post #10 of (permalink) Old 05-24-2009, 05:40 AM
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If the upper 1/2 of the rear seal is tight and stubbern comming out, loosening the other caps will allow it to come out a little easier. Some of the newer NVH blocks also use a ridgidity gurdle. This is a steel strap that bolts to all the main journals, which will also have to be removed. I don't ever remember having to loosen the other caps. a 1/4 inch punch is a little too big, I meant a 1/8 punch.
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