So I plan on doing this...
BC4x4.COM four wheel drive, 4x4, offroad and fourwheeling site.
Swapping tubes from a 10 bolt to a HP44...
I am set on this so...
"I didn’t let his words of discouragement stop me and I to went down the road to re-tubing a reverse rotation Dana 44 to get a passenger side differential."
First step...drill out the pulg welds...
Any tips/suggestions (other than get a good set of drill bits)?
I can take the drill through the tube right? Just don't like up the holes in the tubes to the holes in the dif housing when putting the tubes back in...er no?
Looking ahead...any sources of dry ice or liquid N2, or would those stress the metal too much...? Any other suggested metal cooling methods?
That's a nice writeup. Instead of a drill bit, I'd use a 4-flute, center-cutting end mill to remove the plug welds. In a milling machine would be best, but a good, sturdy drill press would do the job too. Just get everything clamped down very tight so it won't try to walk away. The plug welds usually aren't neat and uniform; they tend to be higher in some places than others. That's why the drill bit wanders off, and you have to finish up with the die grinder. The end mill will cut straight down where you put it.
Dry ice should be easy to come by, and won't hurt a thing, except your fingers if you touch it. :) When I put the C's on I didn't have any problem. I used a flap disk to polish the tube slick, added a very light oil film, and whacked them on with a two-pounder. I wouldn't think that the tubes are a tighter fit in the housing than in the C's. But dry ice certainly won't hurt a thing and should make it easy to assemble.
I've got access to a mill at the high school I work at...how would that be different than a 4 flute center cutting end mill?
And going through the tubes is okay right?
Suggestions on where to get dry ice?
not something i can find at menards or home depot...
The end mill is the tool that goes into the milling machine. Maybe I don't understand your question.
Around here dry ice is manufactured in St. Louis and sold at ice houses. There might be a section in the Madison yellow pages for dry ice. If not, look up ice and call a couple of places.
They will wrap it in newspaper for you. Then drop it in a foam cooler for transport.
Check your grocery store for the dry ice. Mine has it in a tall cooler (that I never paid attention to) in the ice cream aisle. The conveyor company I worked for often had to pull big gears and sprockets from shafts. They used dry ice and they bought it at the grocery store.
Ford called it the 'Snow Fighter' package.
No need for 'Reverse Rotation' gear sets or the like.
Usually the Dana 44's (which came out in all F-150's and some of the F-250's) are PLENTY strong enough for most Jeeps and buggies...
And they are a damn sight easier to re-tube and mount, get axles for, ect.
If you are building this for racing, or all out rock crawling,
I prefer the F-350 or Super Duty axles because they have King Pin type knuckles instead of ball joints which can be a weak point on the Dana 60's.
Anyway, I usually drill a pilot hole in the tube for the axle housing welds, Start with about 1/8" drill that is NICE AND CENTERED in the hole...
Then move up to 1/4" or 5/16" or something like that,
And from there, use a REAMER to continue forcing the hole bigger.
Reamers even give somewhat of a taper to help when you re-weld the new tubes in...
You had better have a LARGE press handy when you go to press out the tubes once they are drilled out and ready for the press!
They drive me CRAZY trying to get them out sometimes, and I have access to a VERY LARGE PRESS!
When you go to weld your tubes in,
Remember, you are welding to CAST STEEL in most cases,
So use a LOW HYDROGEN, HIGH NICKEL CONTENT ROD!
They are running about $50 a pound, but worth EVERY PENNY when welding cast to tubing!
You MUST PRE-HEAT the housing,
And you MUST POST HEAT the housing unless you want the welds to crack...
You will be better off welding the tubes about 1/6 or 1/8 the way in... Skipping spaces...
Then coming back and welding the spaces....
As in making 4 short welds with 4 short spaces in between,
Then coming back and making welds in the 4 openings you left.
This keeps any crack that might get started in the weld or tube from continuing all the way around the tube/housing...
(which is VERY Common since most people don't pre-heat or post-heat, I'd say a good 80% of welds are cracked out in to one degree or another...)
If you want to weld in the axle holes you drilled weld out of before, feel free!
It doesn't hurt a thing, but remember, you have to pre-heat and post-heat a larger area if you do...
(If you do it, Just do it correctly!)
If you are Junk Yard raiding for parts,
I like the Chevy brakes and brake brackets better than the Ford/Jeep brakes.
Their lockouts seem to hold up better in the hubs also.
|All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:17 PM.|
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2021 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2021 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1994-2009, VerticalScope Inc. // Off Road forums & discussion groups sitemap
side by side | atv | dirtbike | snowmobile | sandsport | competition | land use | Jeep | Toyota | Ford | GM