Thanks for the info. I have been using the gaskets and parts from the Trick kit in the rebuild. Only change is that the trick kit came with 5.5, 6.5, 7.5 power valves. If I could get it started I would be able to do about the second half of what you said.
If I were you,
I'd start with a big, honkin' fuel filter!
No such thing as 'Too Clean' of fuel!
I use the large 'See Through' plastic fuel filters.
Since I change them OFTEN, they don't get a chance to get cloudy or get old and crack.
'See Through', or 'See Into' fuel filters will allow you to observe if fuel is getting into/through your system correctly,
And you can look for things like bubbles that would indicate leaks in the lines or holes in the fuel pump diaphragm.
A fuel pressure gauge AFTER the FILTER, as in between filter and carb,
Is ALWAYS a good idea!
See Through filter lets you know you ARE getting fuel,
The gauge lets you know if the fuel is getting THROUGH the filter and if the pressure is correct from the pump...
The second thing I would do is make sure your throttle blades aren't opening to the point of uncovering the transfer slots when the engine is running.
I posted pictures of the transfer slots, and where they will be located in the throttle body bores...
If you uncover the transfer slots too soon, you will get WAY too much fuel...
Another through that crosses my mind,
Which gasket did you use for the Metering Block to Venturi Body?
The wrong metering block gasket,
Or not remembering to put on fresh 'O' rings on the transfer tube (if you have one) will cause MAJOR fuel metering problems!
One other thought I had is that timing is still off. If I am seeing about 10 degrees BTDC just cranking with the starter that is probably too much advance (at least I think). No vacuum advance hooked up, so the mechanical advance is probably not really kicking in, but once it idles the RPM will climb and I'll get some more advance maybe putting me in the 16-20 range?
I would start from SCRATCH, and VERIFY the ignition timing before I went any farther...
It's VERY easy to do, takes basic tools, and will make things MUCH easer to diagnose!
Simply take the #1 spark plug out,
Turn the engine over BY HAND with a wrench/socket on the center bolt of the crankshaft...
Find when COMPRESSION stroke starts by putting your finger over the #1 spark plug hole, and turning the engine BY HAND!
If you use the starter, more than likey the momentum of the crank will carry your engine PAST compression stroke of #1 since there is no COMPRESSION BACKPRESSURE to slow the crank down...
SO DO NOT USE THE STARTER TO TURN THE ENGINE OVER!
Once you have VERIFIED COMPRESSION STROKE STARTING
on #1 Cylinder,
Then stick a chop stick, wooden dowel rod, ect. in the spark plug hole.
DO NOT USE METAL!
You would be Amazed how fast a metal object can screw up cylinder walls, piston top, spark plug threads, ect.
Use the wooden dowel rod to locate the top of the piston,
You crank the engine BY HAND to look for the highest point of the piston on COMPRESSION STROKE!
This is VERIFYING TDC OF COMPRESSION STROKE.
Now that you have MANUALLY VERIFIED TDC OF COMPRESSION, and there is NO QUESTION you have TDC of Compression stroke,
Take a look at the balancer 'Hash' mark, and see if it lines up (roughly) with the 0° (zero) mark on your timing tab on the front cover.
The balancer 'Hash' mark lines up with the 0° mark (within two or three degrees) you have a balancer that hasn't had the outer ring slip on the hub yet.
Balancer outer rings are suspended in rubber between hub and ring... The rubber degrades and the outer ring slips, and causes no end of problems with timing!
You are reading 8° of advance, but if the balancer ring slipped, you might have 18 degrees of initial advance!
VERIFY THE RING 'HASH' MARK AT ROUGHLY 0° WITH THE CRANK AT TDC OF COMPRESSION.
Then locate the #1 plug wire on the distributor cap,
Follow that plug to it's terminal on the distributor cap,
Then mark the location of that terminal on the distributor base so you know where the #1 plug terminal is when the cap is off.
Flip the distributor cap, and have a look at the rotor.
It should be pointing (ROUGHLY) at the mark you made for #1 terminal on the distributor base.
If it's NOT pointing at the mark you made, you have a problem with where the distributor is set, and you need to lift the distributor and correct for #1.
Once you do these simple things,
You don't have to worry about the IGNITION anymore!
MUCH better to waste 20 minutes to VERIFY the ignition than to wonder if that is the problem or not!