Jeep CJ7 - Rattle Can Paint - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 04-30-2009, 11:52 AM Thread Starter
 
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Jeep CJ7 - Rattle Can Paint

Ok, so I recently bought an 85 CJ7 and it was 4 different colors and most of the paint was junk. I read up on different methods of painting and decided that a real paint job was going to cost too much... especially considering I plan to actually use my jeep off road and will scratch the paint.

I preped and primed the paint, then hit it with rust-oleum green. Anyone have suggestions for me to keep it from peeling or straching off too easily?
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 04-30-2009, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
 
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Before and after

jeep 3.jpg

Jeep 1.jpg
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 04-30-2009, 12:45 PM
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It's a fine paint job!

Nothing you can do now to help it last - it's all in the preparation.

EVERYTHING's easy for the guy who doesn't have to do it.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 04-30-2009, 12:53 PM
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Let it dry about a month, then rub it out with a very fine rubbing compound, or even toothpaste!

Rustoleum isn't the best quality paint, but not the worst either. I prefer Krylon, it dries to a harder finish, takes polishing better.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 04-30-2009, 01:54 PM
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Won't a clear coat of something help? Am I ignorant to believe the ads?



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post #6 of (permalink) Old 04-30-2009, 02:10 PM
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Won't a clear coat of something help? Am I ignorant to believe the ads?
No, the ads are true; clear coat can make a tougher surface and reduce the occurance of light scratches. But if the primer isn't bonded well to the metal or the color coat isn't bonded well to the primer, it's going to come off anyway. Nothing will take the place of proper prep. Because of the tougher film, clear coat might delay peeling, but it can't stop it.

Also if there's plastic body filler over holes in the metal, it will wick water and oxygen in through the holes, cause rust at the surface next to the filler, and the filler will pop off no matter how good the paint is.

EVERYTHING's easy for the guy who doesn't have to do it.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 04-30-2009, 02:44 PM
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Be sure to wait at least a week before clear coating it. Sometimes the clear coat will react with the semi dried color coat - and bubble up!

If you buff it out with rubbing compound before clear coating, it comes out even better!

I tried a technique I saw a guy use - I color coated a cabinet with a color coat of enamel - probably Krylon. I let it dry till it was barely tacky. Then I shot a thin coat of thinner/reducer over it from my spray gun.
It melted the surface of the enamel and let it flow slightly, removing orange peel and powder marks. It came out better, smoother, shinier, than if I had rubbed it out, and was much much easier.
I was just learning, I also found out too much thinner/reducer makes it sag.

Clear coat over that and it would probably be awesome.
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 04-30-2009, 04:46 PM
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I got curious and did a search for some pictures Id posted of my Jeep with the halftop. The halftop was rattle can painted sometime between 07-08-2002 and 09-02-2002. Still looks good. Its a semi-gloss which might hold up better than flat.

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Those who understand binary and those who don't.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 04-30-2009, 05:30 PM
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It's not what you have. It's what you do with what you have

Last edited by elusive; 04-30-2009 at 05:33 PM.
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 04-30-2009, 05:32 PM
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I'll never spray bomb my jeep again. this is 3 coats of single stage paint the day after i shot it. it could use a good color sand and buff... but i probably wont.

here is is a week later...


It's not what you have. It's what you do with what you have
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