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post #1 of (permalink) Old 04-20-2009, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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clutch master issues

New problem! Ok so my clutch master keeps losing pressure and then i bleed it and it works perfect again. Air does come out every time i bleed but i am certain the master itself doesn't have leak as i just replaced it twice last week

1990 YJ 258 l6 3.5 BDS lift

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 04-21-2009, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
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bump!

1990 YJ 258 l6 3.5 BDS lift

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 04-21-2009, 09:06 PM
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That's why I don't like juice clutches.

The cups in the slave cylinder are usually knife edge cups, like a brake cylinder.
There has to be slight residual pressure in the lines to keep them sealed. Try putting a light return spring on the fork, to put a little pressure on the slave's cup.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 04-21-2009, 10:18 PM
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I know better than to but I have to ask, how does a spring on the fork keep line pressure on the seal?

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 04-21-2009, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
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mmmm internal slave...

unless that changes nothing?

1990 YJ 258 l6 3.5 BDS lift

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 04-22-2009, 12:07 AM
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The same way a brake cylinder works. The spring keeps pressure on the cup (against the fluid, and drum brakes have a residual valve to keep slight pressure in the line,) keeping it flared out. As opposed to disc calipers - they use square O rings, they don't need something to keep them expanded.
No residual valve in the clutch, but gravity creates the little bit of residual pressure needed.

The clutch slaves have a weak internal spring - when it fails air gets in, just as the complaint says. The external spring pushes the fork, and thusly the piston, back enough.

Plus without the spring, the fork is still touching the fingers - no problem with that really (except for TO bearing wear,) but the vibration from it helps air get in too.

It's not the best cure, but it works - try it!

The right way - replace the slave - but that's alot of work!
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 04-22-2009, 01:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RRich View Post
No residual valve in the clutch, but gravity creates the little bit of residual pressure needed.
It’ll do that with or without the spring.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RRich View Post
The same way a brake cylinder works. The spring keeps pressure on the cup (against the fluid, and drum brakes have a residual valve to keep slight pressure in the line,) keeping it flared out.
The springs pull the shoes back against the stop post at the top. If not for the stop, the two cup seals would touch each other and cover the fluid inlet.

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Originally Posted by RRich View Post
The right way - replace the slave - but that's alot of work!
Wouldn’t be if it were an external, the kind with a fork you could put a spring on. I thought it was an internal from his picture.

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post #8 of (permalink) Old 04-22-2009, 04:25 AM
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TAZ, lets look at reality. If it was you that had the problem I would have laughed instead of answering. I would have waited for someone else to put up a 3 page dissertation of definitions.

What picture?

Yes, internal you can't get to it. I was thinking of external.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 04-22-2009, 08:29 AM
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You not answering, had it been my problem, would have save me a trip for a spring and hoping that it worked.

You could have just said, “Oops”, but you tried to BS your way out.

I’ve never seen a Jeep with a hydraulic clutch but I have seen them on other vehicles. Owned a ’58 MGA with a hydraulic clutch. Best I remember, that MGA and the couple others I’ve seen had no adjustment. It depended on the cylinder not retracting more than necessary to provide the adjustment. If so on a Jeep, an added spring to retract the cylinder would keep the clutch out of adjustment.

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post #10 of (permalink) Old 04-22-2009, 09:13 AM Thread Starter
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So I need a new slave? I just put a new cluth and slave in august..

er I'm so confused now

1990 YJ 258 l6 3.5 BDS lift

/l , [____],
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