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post #1 of (permalink) Old 11-11-1999, 08:22 AM Thread Starter
 
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dana 18 question

I have a 67 CJ-5 with the dana 18 transfer. It has the drum on the rear output for the parking brake. When I got the jeep all the pieces for this setup(except the drum) were missing. I converted the rear to 11 drums so will be using a rear park brake.
So my question: Can I remove the brake drum? Seems I could remove the yoke, unbolt the drum, and bolt the yoke back on. Don't know if the drum provides a seal or bearing surface for the rear yoke. Also did 18's with no park brake have a different/shorter output yoke? Was told that the driveline(engine, trans, transfer) were from a earlier model(56? or was it 62?!)by the previous owner.
Thanks in advance for any info.

Greg
89 XJ, 83 CJ-7, 79 Blazer, 67 CJ-5
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 11-11-1999, 09:05 AM
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Re: dana 18 question

[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] I DO believe that on those models that the transfer case lubricant seal is effected by a seal on the COMPANION FLANGE itself, and that the drum has nothing to do with it. On some of the army stuff like we used to have, you could drop the shaft and drum off....and then use shorter bolts to bolt the driveline direct to the output companion flange. I believe the drum was machined male-female and the output companion flange was standard for the driveline.(female) Man, this is really going back to the dark ages...where's my cobweb broom.....heh heh...I LOVE those ol' two-stick cases! [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif[/img]

CJDave
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 11-11-1999, 09:54 AM
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Re: dana 18 question

Hey -

I can't help you with your question... but I could use those parts you're going to be removing for a CJ-2A project I have. I have nothing back there except the drum brake backing plate. I could use the drum itself as well as whatever holds the drum to the shaft - or whatever you're getting rid of. YOu can e-mail me at [email protected] if interested - Thanks! - Chuck

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 11-11-1999, 10:27 AM
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Re: dana 18 question

you can remove the drum no problem. hint of the day. take out the rear seal, go to a good bearing supplier and have them look for the same seal but with half the thickness( sorry i used to have the number but my tool box is 5 hours from where i am). this will allow you to install two seals on the output (you can do the same with the front, it uses the same seal) and cure a common leak area on the d18.

dan

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 11-11-1999, 02:23 PM
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Re: dana 18 question

[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] Wow! Blackjack...your experience is showing again! Nice call! I used to do that in some real pesky shaft stuffing boxes on hydraulic units.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif[/img]

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 11-12-1999, 10:55 AM
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Re: dana 18 question

I recently bought a 68 CJ-5 with the 18 t-case. What I got was the drum, backing plate, a small lever and one oil soaked shoe, all hastily installed in a cardboard box! I won't complain, I got enough extra parts with this purchase that the back of the CJ was full. (Good stuff, like front disc conversion parts). From what I've read alot of people have removed these driveshaft brakes because they get so fouled with mud, grease, oil (that double seal idea sounds good). Mine has the 11" rear brakes. But this also has had all emergency brake components removed (life on the edge?). I think I might ditch the shaft brake and look for parts to restore the rear emergency brake.

1968 CJ-5 225 V6/T14/18/27frt/44rr
post #7 of (permalink) Old 11-12-1999, 02:40 PM
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Re: dana 18 question

even in tip top shape that brake was marginal at best. and it adds about 15 pounds to the t-case. i would ditch it. hint 2. you can use a front yoke(not all front yokes will work but a few do) and lose the flange mount. if it is a twin stick, you can pull the middle shifter pill out (do not pull the two small pills). this will allow you to have 2wd low range.

dan

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post #8 of (permalink) Old 11-12-1999, 04:17 PM
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Re: dana 18 question

Call Jeff Sugg at M.I.T. in El Cajon Ca. 619-579-7727. He's done this before and should be able to tell you exactly how any what
parts if necesary are needed.

Gary
post #9 of (permalink) Old 11-12-1999, 05:11 PM
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Re: dana 18 question

Greg,
You can remove the drum and backing plate with no problem. You will have to remove the yoke. The yoke
provides the sealing surface just like on a diff. The two thin seal idea is excellent as these are notorious
for leaking.Plus it will move the seal to a fresh surface. You can use your existing companion flanges
with some good quality (grade 8 or equivalent) bolts. I did the same thing and have had no problems in
4 years of HARD running behind a Buick v-6 chassis dyno'd at 215 horseys. Good luck. Nickmil.

post #10 of (permalink) Old 11-12-1999, 05:44 PM
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Re: dana 18 question

Bummer.... The original TC was a large hole, 1.25-inch shaft model 18. If the drive-line is earlier, like you suggest, like 50's, or 62, you will likely find the 'medium' shaft model 18, and you can measure it at the back-center of the case. If it's as old as you think, you might find a 1.125-inch intermediate shaft. In my opinion, not quite so good. The large-hole, 1.25-inch model 18 seems to be the most sought after, and they came stock on the V6 Jeeps, 66-71 (as well as other models and years). The large-hole model 18 has a 2.46 low ratio, where the other two model 18's have 2.43, and 1.97.
The CJD post about removing the brake parts is correct.

bob
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