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post #1 of (permalink) Old 11-07-2008, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
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Headlight Sw, Dash Lights and LED's

My headlight switch is running quite warm. Some of you may recall awhile back that I asked where the headlight CB is....as some of you informed me...it's part of the headlight switch...part, not in...so there is no CB to swap out short of replacing the switch.

Bascially, my headlights come on and work fine....for about 10 min and then shut off for about 30 sec..then come back on for awhile.....I would assume that if I had a short the would flash on and off....so throw in the fact that the switch is hot (ok, really warm)....maybe I have a marginal CB.....

Does anyone else notice their switch hot?

I'm thinking it's possible that the heat is caused by the dimmer switch....as you dim the lights down, the resistive element absorbs more of the energy....gets hot.

To tonight I'll turn my dash lights up all the way...this should reduce the heat on the switch....

Regarding LED's....has anyone tried them for the dash?

Dash lights - does anyone (Leve?) have the list of which type goes in which hole? I have a mix of 1892, 1893, 1895 and 53.

AKA DDawg16
84 CJ7, SOA, 5.7LTBI, 4L60E, 35"x12.5, 4.10 gears, F/Det, R/ARB, Full Roll Cage,
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 11-07-2008, 04:39 PM
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My dash switch in my YJ used to get HOT to the touch. It would make you jump when you touched it but it wouldn't burn ya. I replaced it and it did the same thing. It was in a rio grande model and was a toggle type switch.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 11-07-2008, 06:05 PM
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There is no resistive element in the headlight circuit. The low beam is a separate filament that uses less wattage and is located in a different place to cause a different pattern.

You have the common problem of more headlight than circuit capacity. You need to put relays in the circuit to cut the load through the switch. It's been written up many times. There are circuit drawings here. See if you can find them.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 11-07-2008, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
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Jim....I'm talking about the resistive element for the dash lights....

I have stock lights....same load as before the frame up re-build.....I'll check it with the voltmeter tomorrow.....right now I'm leaning towards the switch....I believe it is a cheap one from Kragens....before I switched over to NAPA.

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 11-08-2008, 12:45 AM
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If you have the type that feeds through the hi/low beam from the floor to the headlight switch on the dash it will be warm if the collar that the dash nut holds it to the dash isn't grounded really good. Mine would get warm and the lights would shut off, but then I made sure the dash was grounded and I removed some paint, assembled it back up and it gets slightly warm now.

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 11-08-2008, 05:26 AM
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Quote:
Jim....I'm talking about the resistive element for the dash lights....
Oops. I thought you were slipping to not know how the headlights work. Guess I'm the one who's slipping.

If you're running stock headlights I would suspect that the switch is bad. Probably the contact points of the CB have developed some resistance that's causing extra heat. But that's also exactly the behavior you'll get if you install QH replacements like Hella or Cibie. IIRC they come with 40/50 watt bulbs, where the stock sealed beams are more like 25/30 watt.

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Last edited by Jim_Lou; 11-08-2008 at 05:33 AM.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 11-08-2008, 05:40 AM
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JL,

Mine acted weird after I changed out the headlights to Hella, but once I re-made the ground for the headlight/parking light switch and made sure the metal frame of the switch was grounded it worked fine after that, OR, am I speaking of something different than you fella's.

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post #8 of (permalink) Old 11-08-2008, 06:03 AM
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Nope. That's what I'm talking about. Except that I couldn't correct the problem until I installed relays. That was the stock body, but when it was brand new.

Some other vehicle I had used the same headlight switch and did the same thing. I opened up the switch and bent the bi-metal strip of the circuit breaker to increase its capacity. In retrospect that was a stupid move, but it worked.

As for the LED question, I use them for the warning lights and high-beam indicator. I don't know why they wouldn't work as instrument lights, but to me the advantages aren't worth the effort unless someone makes plug-in replacements. Then they're probably not worth the cost.

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Last edited by Jim_Lou; 11-08-2008 at 06:06 AM.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 11-08-2008, 09:15 PM
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I always wanted to to LED dash lights but was never feasible, after reading this and doing a search it is now feasible.

Automotive & Marine dashboard LED Replacement Bulbs

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post #10 of (permalink) Old 11-09-2008, 05:48 AM
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Interesting. But at $8.50 each plus $17.50 per order shipping from Australia I'll stick with incandescents. Might be a good opportunity for a distributor though.

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B. Dash Fabrication
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