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post #1 of (permalink) Old 10-21-2008, 07:12 AM Thread Starter
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Anti-Freeze

Just curious, what mixture of Anti-Freeze do you use, and why? Have you ever had to replace your water pump, and why, what was the problem? I personally use straight Anti-Freeze even though it doesn't get that cold here. I guess my luck isn't very good because every time I use a mixture and not straight, in a year or two I have to replace the pump because of bearing failures. I do know that since I started using straight I've had no problems with replacing water pumps or having my radiator flushed/cleaned, when I built my 1990, 5.0L with the aluminum radiator in 00 it looks as good as the day it was installed, same pump and thermostat also. the 1995 YJ I just brought home, what a creampuff, as I have been checking all the essentials before putting tags on it I noticed it warmed up fast and found out the PO had been using a mixture and I didn't like the looks of the radiator soooo I had a metal/brass spare laying around sooooo I replaced the old and it had the plastic ends, I pulled them off and found out 3/4's of it was plugged up with calcium from the water or whatever is in the mixture I guess and the motor had the inlet/outlet thingy's in the heater hoses also for flushing it out, go figure. Anyway I welcome all answers/opinions, thanks for your time.

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 10-21-2008, 08:28 AM
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Nothing really 'wrong' with using straight anti-freeze except for the heat transfer characteristic. In concentrations greater than 50%, the ability of the anit-freeze to remove heat from your engine is reduced. Somehow, a figure of about 20% comes to mind.

What you are describing is one of the reasons GM went with it's Dexcool. Because of the mix of Al and iron in the engine, they came up with that mixture that created less problems.

To some extent, you can do the same thing buy using distilled water. It will give you the same effect (no deposits) without loosing cooling effeciency....and it's a lot cheaper than anti-freeze.

As for the bearing failure....those are supposed to be sealed bearings....what liquid you use should not matter......any chance you have the belts too tight?

Where did you buy it from? Unless you bought it from the dealer, it is most likely a rebuilt unit....and most of the crap coming out of Auto Zone and other discount auto parts stores is basically crap. I buy from NAPA only. Learned the hard way.

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 10-21-2008, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
I guess my luck isn't very good because every time I use a mixture and not straight, in a year or two I have to replace the pump because of bearing failures.
IMHO, you killed the pumps. Harsh words? Perhaps, read on.

The anti-freeze has a lube in it for the pump, and when you used straight anti-freeze the corrosion factor is minimized, as is the thermal transfer. But that's not the correct way to install engine coolant.

When you're using the ol' green anti-freeze and if you're not changing anti-freeze once a year, and chemecially flushing the engine you're doing a disservice to the Jeeep. When you do this, using distilled water is still best, but you keep build up at a minimum. The new anti-freeze also has a new lube and additives that help keep corrosion at a minimum.

Many people find themselves standing by the side of the road every day scratching thier head, waiting for a tow truck, and cussing their vehicle. The real reason they are standing there is that they never read AND followed the owner's manual in the glove compartment.

It's amazing what you find in that doucment.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 10-21-2008, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
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Leve, them ain't harsh. I just don't understand how I killed the pump and why you would say that. I always use dealer OR Napa parts, learnt my lesson when I had my 69 Plymouth Duster 340. I used to use distilled water back when money was tight and I was cheep, only thing about that is you can't sit still for long or the vehicle will overheat. I've been in situations with my current CJ where it had to idle for hours and the gauge never moved, right now when I drive it the needle just barely makes it to the colored line just above the C. I don't understand, my 1990 w/the 5.0L motor has a manual gauge and never moves above 185 while driving and if you let it sit idling the temp actually drops, if I shut it down and return back in say 15 minutes it will actually be approx. 20 degrees or more lower. Yes I'm not one of those people that can't read, I constantly read as things are constantly changing. I remember when the plumbers/steamfitters used straight Glycol in the heating systems in big buildings around here, not anymore, not cost effective. I haven't bought anything new to drive since 94 soooooo I don't know what the owners manuals say about coolant, all of the manuals I have ever read say to buy GM coolant, Mopar coolant, Toyota coolant etc. I flush, clean and change all fluids on a regular basis, but there is one thing I can't figure out, how can you over tighten a serpintine belt system. I probably did "Kill" my 1st pump by over tightening the "V" belt, but everyone has dumb attacks now and then. I just asked a couple of questions to seee what type of answers and reasoning was out there, thinking I might learn something new and get a bit of cranial stimulation but I guess not. I do know I recieved pretty much the same answers from the locals around here but they are the same ones I've seen on the side of the road, hands on hips and cussin, with steam rollin out from under the hood.

BOOGER

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