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post #1 of (permalink) Old 04-12-2008, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
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Radiator Flush Best Practice

Hey guys, what is the best over the counter, out the auto parts store door radiator flush concoction? I have a lot of fine particles floating around by radiator after an overheat condition. What are the best practices to for me to clean this stuff out? Thanks for the wisdom.

1985 CJ with a transplanted 94YJ 4.0L motor, T176 tranny, mainly stock otherwise. ><>
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 04-12-2008, 08:58 PM
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I buy a Prestone Back Flush kit and install it in the heater hoses on all my vehicles. Then it's a very simple matter of draining the coolant, installing the cleaning chemicals (even CLR works), heat up the engine, let it sit and flush it out the radiator. Simple as pie.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 04-13-2008, 01:26 PM
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I didn't mention this at the time, but Leve's CLR works VERY well!

A co-workers poorly neglected (we believe the Dexcool was topped off with regular green AF... BAD!) Blazer w/ 4.3L. The radiator was full of gel and crystallized garbage...

We drained the brown AF, poured in 2 small bottles of CLR, topped off with water and ran around for an hour. We got back and drained all the goop out the lower fitting (the drain petcock was seized), flushed the radiator from the top down, and the engine from the top down...

The inside passages of the radiator had not only opened up, but looked near new. We loaded it up with regular AF place HUGE sticker saying "NO DEXCOOL!" on the tank & cap), topped off with distilled H2O and it's still running clean today after 5 years.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 04-13-2008, 02:14 PM
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I can't verify how true it is, but for years I've heard that using distilled water in the cooling system is a no-no.
Supposedly since it's charged with ions, it eats the insides of everything. Especially if aluminum is present.
Regular tap water still has the minerals in it - supposedly bad too, but it's "less worse" than distilled.

Anybody know if it's true or just a wives tale?
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 04-13-2008, 04:34 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys for the insight. Regarding the use of CLR, is the CLR Bathroom & Kitchen Cleaner sold in the 26 oz. bottle what you guys are referring to or the Power Plumer CLR stuff?

1985 CJ with a transplanted 94YJ 4.0L motor, T176 tranny, mainly stock otherwise. ><>
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 04-13-2008, 06:07 PM
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Yep... it is.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 04-13-2008, 07:34 PM
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As for the distiled water, I don't know if it is bad, but we have been refilling everything from tractors to cars with tap water and I have honestly never had a cooling issue in anything but a Yanmar tractor and we never figured out what was wrong with it. We finally bought a circulating pump off of another model and it cooled it down within paramiters.

Ya only go around once, best to enjoy it the first trip.
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 04-13-2008, 11:29 PM
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We only used distilled in the Blazer cause it was in the back... part of his wifes emergency stash.

I know the 7.3L IDI crowd are fanatical about using distilled water in them. Not sure if it combats the the big "C" or if they think it better. That's where I picked it up at... but I usually fill from the spigot between the garage doors

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post #9 of (permalink) Old 04-14-2008, 01:38 AM
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Maybe de-ionized?

Last edited by RRich; 04-14-2008 at 01:52 AM.
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 04-14-2008, 03:13 AM
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De-ionized is the correct answer....or as you may hear boiler guys say, DI water.

Without going into a lot of details, tap water can varry a lot from region to region depending on where it comes from....if it's well water, then it will most likely have a lot of minerals in it. Not all are bad...the worse is calcium. It tends to solidify out and settle down...does not come out well when you do just a water flush. Most of the other stuff in water tends to stay suspended...

Distilled water is nothing more than water that has had the solids removed...but it does nothing for the VOC's that tend to remain in the water.

DI water is Distilled water that has been ultra-purified. There is a good write here. The key issue is the resitivity. Or, think of it this way...the more conductive the water is, the greater the chance of two dis-similar metals in your engine creating corrosion.

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