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post #1 of (permalink) Old 04-05-2008, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
 
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fab a swaybar link?

After lifting my CJ I have been driving it for the last year without a swaybar. I was thinking about making my own outta the old one I had, and wondering if anyone here had made one before? If so any ideas or thoughts to help would be appreciated. Thanks
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 04-06-2008, 05:26 AM
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Easy - especially if you have the old ones. I custom make them all the time.

Measure the travel of the axle between full compression and full droop. Then measure where you want it at normal rest.

If you do it right, when off roading all you have to do is disconnect one side - the other side makes it move up and down freely without hitting anything. With one side disconnected the sway bar does nothing.

Some people take off both sides when wheeling, then they have to tie it up out of the way.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 04-06-2008, 11:43 AM
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Just cut the link shaft between the eyes, and weld a longer tube between the two ends. To make one side disconnect, you can leave one end unwelded and drill a hole through the tube and the link, and put a pin through to connect. Don't drill too large a hole, there's not much thickness to the original link shaft. I did one with a 3/16pin, held up ok.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 04-06-2008, 02:48 PM
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Randy - then you leave it to be sort of telescopic?

I have too much travel to do that. What I did is put big tapered pins upper and lower, then rubber bushings go over the pins, then round "eyes" )like shock ends) go over the bushing. Then everything is held on with a wire pin.

I just pull 2 pins and take the whole thing off - 15 seconds.

Hmmm, easier to snap a picture!
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 04-06-2008, 03:04 PM
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This is my idea for a sway bar disconnect - it would only take one. I was going to make one for my Jeep but still haven't seen a need to put the sway bar back on. The advantage is that when it's disconnected everything still stays in its natural position, so there's nothing to tie up, and nothing to force back together when it's time to reconnect. If someone is interested in trying it I'll make one.

SBDisc.jpg

EVERYTHING's easy for the guy who doesn't have to do it.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 04-06-2008, 03:20 PM
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I tried something similar to that - telescopic - but it had to be too long. It would hit the inner fender when it flexed.
But then, I have close to 10" of travel. Stockers or near stock it should work fine.

Another scheme that works well - and someone was making a kit for it - I can't find it anymore - it disconnected in the center of the swaybar. You cut the bar in half, then welded a sleeve on one side, then the other half slid in and was locked, or unlocked somehow.
Problem with it was it's hard to get to - behind and under the winch! I've only seen one!

The new electric swaybar disconnects are a neat idea, but they are HEAVY and are computer controlled (but what isn't?)
I'm told if the vehicle is driven more than 20 MPH with the electric swaybar disconnected, the 4 wheel drive computer can be damaged. Yes, another computer besides the PCM.

What ever happened to simplicity?
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 04-06-2008, 04:33 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for the ideas! I have been a reader here for years and much info I have been able to gather from other post but I had'nt seen anything on this.
Thanks again.
Mike
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 04-08-2008, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
 
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Unhappy

went out yesterday and attempted to fit the swaybar, I had some issues.
my stock links appeared to be the right hight. How can this be? I've added 4" of lift and oversized shackles I should have at least 4.5" diff between the new and old links. If I added the diff upon movement it would hit my brake line where it's mounted to the frame. Any one have some photo's to for me to look at, it's an 80 cj so something that has a sway bar like it would be helpful. I'm sure I'm having a brain fart cause I can smell the stank all over. I feel like just driving without the dang swaybar but am tired of bouncing all over the road!!!
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 04-08-2008, 11:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RRich View Post
Randy - then you leave it to be sort of telescopic?

I have too much travel to do that. What I did is put big tapered pins upper and lower, then rubber bushings go over the pins, then round "eyes" )like shock ends) go over the bushing. Then everything is held on with a wire pin.

I just pull 2 pins and take the whole thing off - 15 seconds.

Hmmm, easier to snap a picture!
Rrich- what I was trying to describe looks like what you have in your picture.

I had thought about making a center disconnect for the bar by cutting the bar in half, welding a large nut on one end, and then putting a deep socket on the other end, with another nut welded on- then using the socket to "couple" the two nuts....still working on how to keep the bar stable when disconnected...

Randy S.
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82 Scrambler 5.3/4L60E/241OR/D44&HD20 4.56/lockers
1999 XJ Cherokee
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 04-09-2008, 12:24 AM
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As I remember, one end of the "cut in the half swaybar" was ground to a flat - like a screwdriver. The coupler slid over to engage the flat with a slot.
But I may be remembering it wrong. I just saw it standing in front, didn't get much chance to look real close. I think someone was making and selling them several years ago, but no longer.

The nut and socket idea sounds much better - more surface contact. Probably easier to make too.
You could even use a cable to slide the socket part back and forth? The cable wouldn't need to reach inside to the cab, just enough to have it where you could reach it, but out of the way. But it could hold the slider in place, in or out, keeping it from moving.

If you could perfect the idea - and make it small enough to fit under a winch easily, you could probably make a fortune selling them.

Good Luck, I hope you get it perfected!
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