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post #1 of (permalink) Old 02-29-2008, 03:21 PM Thread Starter
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tube for roll bars and brush guards

ok i need some more good info i want build my own front brush guard and am having a hard time finding the right tubing in the omaha nebr area maybe i am not asking for the right stuff i dont know... seems like all everybody has is water pipe... want is it called and what is the right thickness etc what i am wanting to build is in the pic below thanks
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 02-29-2008, 04:06 PM
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There are three schools of thought, and they're all right. Ask for ERW (Electric resistance welded) or DOM (Drawn over mandrel) or 4130 Chrome-molybdenum tube.

They are all structural tubes, defined by an O.D. and wall thickness. Pipe is defined by I.D. and pressure rating ( 2-inch Schedule 80, etc.)

ERW is commonly used for building tube structures, and is the cheapest of the three. DOM is more exact in the ID and OD, and is used as hydraulic and pneumatic cylinders. 4130 and its cousin 4140 are high-strength alloys that are used in critical applications like race car frames and aircraft and are the only tubes commonly available in sizes that will telescope.

The conventional wisdom is that DOM is a little stronger, but also a little more brittle, and will break in cases where ERW will bend. 4130 is stronger still, but best left to professionals since it requires special welding techniques to maintain its strength.

Personally, I recommend ERW for your application. It's easy to work with and plenty strong.

I'm sure there must be a suppler in the Omaha area, but if you can't find one, call my supplier in St. Louis at 800 833-1259 or go to their website, Shapiro Supply - HOME. They ship all over the country and have good prices. Tell them that Jim at B. Dash told you to call and you might get a break.

EVERYTHING's easy for the guy who doesn't have to do it.
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Last edited by Jim_Lou; 02-29-2008 at 04:12 PM.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 02-29-2008, 04:09 PM
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HREW 1 3/4x.120 minimum. THere is nothing wrong with HREW for bumpers and the like. Works fine on cages, but IMHO Dom is a better choice for cages. Any decent steel yard can get HREW and Dom. You just have to ask for it specificaly. It will be expensive by the foot, I bought my 1 3/4 in 200' bundle to get a reasonable price.

Ya only go around once, best to enjoy it the first trip.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 02-29-2008, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
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Smile erw tube

ok i went to their web site and pulled up the list on erw alloy 1010 and 1020 sstm type they show all different sizes to pick on wall and id and wpf what would you suggest for that front brush tube for that bumper i show in the pic the way the factory builds it is a round steel plate is welded on the end and looks to me like they have welded in two nuts on each side and it is bolted from under thru the two holes that are in my bumper kind of like it as i wont have to weld on the bumper and the pipe guard is easy to remove if i want too or replace ... i have a very basic pipe bender from harbor frt... it will bend pipe to up 2 1/2 inches and the factory size is 2 in ... jim will i have any troble bending the erw on this bender and i plan on welding those round or square plates on the bottom of the pipe just going to take some good meassurements to get both sides right and i also want it to tilt out a bit
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 02-29-2008, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myscrambler1 View Post
i have a very basic pipe bender from harbor frt... it will bend pipe to up 2 1/2 inches
"PIPE benders" are just for that... that's why they're cheap...

Tubing benders are neither cheap nor made to bend "pipe"

While a pipe bender may work, it'll likely just completely crimp the tube shut or flatten the bend radius... unless packed with sand or other sorts of redneck trickery

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 02-29-2008, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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pipe bender

ok i thought about that problem soo with the steel tube short only about 4 or 5 foot if i filled it with sand and tacked plates on both ends while i bend it should be ok then remove the plates. or for my purpose of just a round bar to protect winch and maybe mount some lights just go ahead and use 2 in pipe..... im just asking... i would rather use the correct stuff but dont want to waste my time and money getting the right pipe just to mess it up trying to bend it....
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 02-29-2008, 07:37 PM
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The bar to protect the winch and put lights on isn't a life safety issue.
Easy way - a muffler shop can bend up something to your liking. It'll be thin, but cheap.

When it comes to a cage - your life depends on it - do it right!

I've heard of people using a couple of shims in the pipe bender's mandrel to take up the gap from pipe to tube. I haven't seen the results of it, I doubt it's very good.
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 02-29-2008, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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Smile pipe bender

ok thats a idea i hadnt thought of using exhaust pipe but back to the pipe i have a pipe bender why not use reg water pipe say 2 in i can weld on it to the plates to mount to bumper it adds a little weight but is their any other reason not to use it...
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 02-29-2008, 08:16 PM
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Do it right the firsts time... there ain't no room for water pipe on a Jeep... it's cast, fractures, heavy as a bugger and you have a heck of a time welding it... and that's the good things. Don't cheap out.. get the right materials, do the job once... right the first time. As for exhaust pipe... its soft, easily crushed, not very strong, and rusts at the drop of a hat.

You'll be doing yourself a huge favor.
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 03-01-2008, 09:21 AM
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I built my cage out of 2" .120 wall DOM. I was able to use the pipe bender you describe for all of my bends. Here's the trick as I see it with the pipe bender and tubing.

Pipe is measured by it's inside diameter (ID), tubing by outside diameter (OD). The 2" DOM fit very snugly into the 1.5" pipe bender die. So snug that it acutally pressed into it slightly as I first started to put pressure on it. The tight fit in the die kept the insideof the bend from kinking or rippling.

I did one 90 degree test bend and ran into the problem of the outter rollers on the bender, denting the outside of the tubing. To cure this I cut a section of 2" galvanized PIPE in half lengthwise and slid this over the portion of the tubing contacting the outer rollers. This stopped the denting.

It takes time using the pipe bender, but once you get the hand of it, things go pretty smoothly. You have to move the rollers outward as the bend gets tighter.

I also used the pipe bender to make side steps using some 1" poop pipe. I had one 90 degree bend collapse, but the rest went fine without any shimming or having to find the right size DOM to fit the pipe die. The smaller diameter pipe just bends better.

Is this the only hammer you've got?
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