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post #1 of (permalink) Old 02-26-2008, 02:15 AM Thread Starter
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350 Bellhousing to ford 435

I have a Chevy 350 full aluminum bellhousing that I have modified to fit my Ford NP435 trans, all went well. My question is I have both top 1/2" Grade 8 bolts in and one on bottom where I drilled out the new hole kinda like Novak showed but there is no ear on the other side. Should I worry about the other bolt and if so what are my options? The is only one place I can drill a hole for a bolt and there is only 1/4" of aluminum.

1988 YJ 350 W/RV cam, 1 Ton 4 speed,205 TC, Ford 9" Rear, Dana 44 Front, SOA, 2.5" Leafs, 2" Body, 1.5"-2" Motor mount lift & T case drop.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 02-26-2008, 06:17 AM
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A welding shop can put an ear on and reinforce it for you

EVERYTHING's easy for the guy who doesn't have to do it.
B. Dash Fabrication
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 02-26-2008, 08:18 AM
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DIY:
  • Clean the case.
  • V-grove the area to be welded,
  • Start building up a pad.
  • A die grinder is your friend.
  • Make sure the grinder disk doesn't leave material in the area your grinding.
  • Get a 3xxx series TIG welding rod (and a TIG welder would be nice too!)
  • Preheat the part for 30 minutes at 500,
  • TIG weld a pad and build the ear.
  • Let bell housing completely cool.
  • check for warping,
  • Machine ear if it's needed.
  • Drill that hole.
  • Your done!
Just a couple of questions of interest...

What are you doing about the starter mounting and gearing?

Do you know the composition of the bell housing or if it's molded or machined? The composition of the aluminum can preclude doing a weld that will hold.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 02-26-2008, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
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The bellhousing is molded and I figured the starter would match up the same since i'm not changing that area.



Thanks:

1988 YJ 350 W/RV cam, 1 Ton 4 speed,205 TC, Ford 9" Rear, Dana 44 Front, SOA, 2.5" Leafs, 2" Body, 1.5"-2" Motor mount lift & T case drop.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 02-26-2008, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
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Oh i'm going with 4.11's & 35's. I think I have found that if I stay away from 4.56's or greater I want have to Change as much.

1988 YJ 350 W/RV cam, 1 Ton 4 speed,205 TC, Ford 9" Rear, Dana 44 Front, SOA, 2.5" Leafs, 2" Body, 1.5"-2" Motor mount lift & T case drop.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 02-26-2008, 01:45 PM
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"if I stay away from 4.56's or greater I want have to Change as much"

How does this change anything?

Ya only go around once, best to enjoy it the first trip.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 02-26-2008, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
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Well I was told that if I go with 4.56 in an 8.8 or a D44 that you have to change the carrier & grind down the inside of a 9".
I just figured that 4.11 should be enough altgough I havent done any cal's

1988 YJ 350 W/RV cam, 1 Ton 4 speed,205 TC, Ford 9" Rear, Dana 44 Front, SOA, 2.5" Leafs, 2" Body, 1.5"-2" Motor mount lift & T case drop.
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 02-26-2008, 03:03 PM
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I don't doubt it, I am used to Dana axles where the carrier break is around the 3.70's then you have to change to go numericaly higher.

As for the 9 inch they have gears for it all the way down to 6.0 but I don't know what you have to do to it to make them work.

Jeff

Ya only go around once, best to enjoy it the first trip.
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