Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Belleville, Illinois
Thanked 22 Times in 17 Posts
The Scout outers are not significantly stronger than CJ outers, so you may as well do whatever is easy, which is use the CJ outers. Then the brakes and steering connect right up, although you'll need longer links and hoses. You are aware that the Scout axle is built with zero caster, which will likely cause death wobble if you don't correct it, right?
If you want stronger outers to go with the Scout 44, use Chevy, Dodge, Ford or full-size Jeep parts. The Jeep parts, from the late 70's on, have brakes I don't particularly like, but the rest are OK.
Anything you do other than keep the CJ parts will require some modifications to connect the steering and brakes - there is no bolt-on big-hub swap. At the same time, I wouldn't bother with the 44 swap at all if I couldn't take advantage of the big hubs that go with the full-size axles.
I narrowed an axle from a full-size Cherokee and used outers from a Dodge Ram Charger, because they're flat-top and have good brakes. I modified the knuckles to accept the stock CJ steering arrangement, although I made stronger links. It only took a little work with a die grinder to make the CJ brake hoses connect. It was all pretty straight forward. There are some pictures of the knuckle modification on my website.
Actually, I wouldn't even bother with the Scout axle. All you're getting is a wider assembly and stronger differential. I think the tubes are the same size as the CJ tubes, the hubs, shafts and joints are no stronger, and you have the caster problem to deal with. It's very little more work to use the axle from a 1/2-ton truck and get stronger everything.
I guess the real question is, why are you contemplating this in the first place?
Last edited by Jim_Lou; 11-22-2007 at 12:57 PM.