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post #1 of (permalink) Old 10-21-2007, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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Home brew onboard welder + Ready Welder?

Has anyone powered a Ready Welder with a home brew weldinator? Ready welder recommends a voltage supply of 12-36 volts and my weldinator puts out a max of just over 100 volts. So I need to regulate the voltage to a max of 36 volts. Could I wire in an automotive voltage regulator and put a potentiometer in the wire for the stator? How do figure the resistance required for the potentiometer and how do I need to wire this thing?




Or is there a way to isolate the electronics in the ready welder from the higher voltage? I want the option of powering the ready welder with batteries and my on board welder.

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Last edited by jeeperjohn; 10-21-2007 at 06:46 PM.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 10-21-2007, 08:02 PM
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Why would you want to do that?

I'd think the 100 volts might burn up the Ready Welder - even if accidental. Call them, they could tell you if it would.

I assume you don't want to dedicate room for a 2nd battery? I use a small tractor battery as the second battery to get 24 volts - nestled in beside the engine behind my on-board-air - works great.

I've used a Ready Welder hooked to a Premier Welder, but the voltage on those is limited to 36, and I wasn't impressed with the performance of the combination.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 10-21-2007, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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Room and having the ability to get something other than 12, 18, 24 or 30 volts.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 10-21-2007, 09:29 PM
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What kind of steel do you plan to weld with 36 volts? I have only used mine up to 24 volts. I havent run into anything thicker than 1/4 to weld.

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 10-24-2007, 10:01 PM
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What kind of welders are these? Portable, on your trail rig? Sounds like a handy tool to have along.

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 10-24-2007, 10:12 PM
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His homemade welder is obviously an on-board - a converted alternator. It's essentially a stick welder. Do an internet search as to how to make one.

The Ready Welder - Ready Welder - www.readywelder.com
It's totally portable - in a suitcase. All you need is a couple of batteries to use it. It comes in real handy when you can't get your rig close enough to reach him with an on-board welder. It's a spoolgun MIG welder.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 10-25-2007, 10:01 AM
 
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You can modify an external regulator's sensing of voltage to have it regulate at a much higher voltage. Basically you use a voltage drop resistor to fool the regulator into believing that 36 volts is 14.2, so it regulates to the new higher voltage. Look for a booklet called "alternator secrets". I'll see if I can find it online in pdf form.
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 10-25-2007, 10:40 AM
 
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On your schematic, its the alternator sensing voltage lead that needs to be connected to a network of two resistors. One fixed value, the other the potentiometer. You tap the voltage between the two resistors running across the source to ground, one of them say twice the resistance of the other, and you will get a reading that is lower than the actual voltage across the two.

I can't find the booklet online. It use to be in pdf form. I bought a copy years ago at a garage sale, but I have no idea where it is.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 10-25-2007, 10:56 AM
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Here's a good article on how to make your own on-board welder.

Onboard welder w/140A alternator

Remember KISS!

The negative - it takes more skill to use a stick welder than a MIG.

I like the Ready Welder (MIG spoolgun) because it's portable - you can switch vehicles with it or carry it most anywhere.
What I DON'T like about it is there's no way to control the heat. At 24 volts it's very hot - too high an amperage - probably at least 300 amps - it's easy to burn through things like tie rods, even with frames you have to be careful. But it's a great "trail fixer." At the high current you can even crudely cut with it.

Lower amperage - At 12 volts it's very hard to get the arc started and keep it going.

Haven't tried 18 volts yet. That may be just right.
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 10-25-2007, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RRich View Post
What I DON'T like about it is there's no way to control the heat. At 24 volts it's very hot - too high an amperage - probably at least 300 amps - it's easy to burn through things like tie rods, even with frames you have to be careful. But it's a great "trail fixer." At the high current you can even crudely cut with it.

Lower amperage - At 12 volts it's very hard to get the arc started and keep it going.

Haven't tried 18 volts yet. That may be just right.
This is exactly what I am trying to get around. If it works, you will be able to control voltage and amperage. So, you will be able to get the correct voltage at the correct amperage.

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