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post #1 of (permalink) Old 07-22-2007, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
 
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mc 2100 need some help

I have the 2100 on my 1980 258 auto. I put the manual choke kit on it but i hate it . I don't have the cap spring thing so what do i need to buy? Some one said the one off the carter bbd works better. I sold that carb. But what part would i have to buy for that if it is better. Plus what is the Setinode thing that i can hook up electric to it to bumb up the idle for the auto???My carb doesn't have it but mabe someone has the bracket and setinode that thay would sell me are tell me were i can buy one? Thanks
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 07-23-2007, 10:29 AM
 
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Its probably just called a thermostat. The bimetal coil under the plastic cap, that's what you're talking about right? And there should be a metal plate that sits inside the carb and the lever arm protrudes through it.

Here's my experience with the MC2100 and the electrically assisted choke. The Ford one didn't work for some reason. I'm wondering if the voltage is different that it operates on. The Carter coil is obviously the correct voltage as it came off your jeep, but, it rotates the wrong direction. It will open it when cold and close when hot. You can take the bimetal coil out and flip it over. I did that, it works. I never could get it adjusted right. Maybe I don't have enough patience. It was overly sensitive to the cold. I'd stop to fill for gas and it would put on too much choke after only a short stop. Perhaps you can get it to work better.

What's wrong with the manual choke by the way?
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 07-23-2007, 12:22 PM Thread Starter
 
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It did ok in the winter time, But this summer it has give me a fit. Mabye its me i don't know. In the summer here in KY pretty hot. i've tried to start it after sitting all night With out the choke don't want to start, Tried with half choke don't want to start, tried all choke try'es to start then just floods, lotts of cranking to get it started, then its good for the day.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 07-23-2007, 12:36 PM
 
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That sounds more difficult than it should be. In the warm summer, I'd think with a couple of pumps of the pedal, the accellerator pump should squirt enough fuel into the intake that it at least fires up, even if it dies back down.

Does it fire up after you pump the pedal to prime it (choke open, warm weather)?
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 07-23-2007, 02:47 PM Thread Starter
 
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Yes it kind of starts then dies and then just turns over and no start after that unless i choke it, then just hard to get started the frist time then its ok like i'm flooding it or something.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 07-23-2007, 03:13 PM
 
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I think there is some other problem. That carb shouldn't be causing you problems. If it was always too rich, I'd say replace the power valve, but that doesn't seem to be the problem.

You need to give everything a thorough going over, from manifold leaks, to adapter to carb base leaks, float level, idle adjustment, etc. In warm weather you should not need much choke or for more than a moment to get it to fire up. You have some work ahead of you.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 07-23-2007, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TiminMb View Post
In the warm summer, I'd think with a couple of pumps of the pedal, the accellerator pump should squirt enough fuel into the intake that it at least fires up, even if it dies back down.
Tim's right about that... while my 2100 has the choke butterflies, the linkage is gone and the butterflies wired open = NO choke... has been that way for 5 years. It does take a bit of pedal massaging for the first 2 mins. when "cold" (regardless of outside temps), but is fine once the engine is warm. Restarts when warm are instant with no pedal...

Caver Dave
'72 "Mossy Edition" Commando
the Trail Forge
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 07-23-2007, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks guys i will get started trying to find the problem. Also i never replace the power valve on the carb win i got it like the right-up said . I ask the guy at autozone and he couldn't help me so i just installed. It did fine in the winter but now. Sorry i fogot all about the power valve could this be my problem? if so want do i ask for at the parts store?. David
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 07-23-2007, 05:03 PM
 
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I apologize for mentioning the power valve when there is no reason to focus on it. It produces enrichment of the mixture when vacuum is low, which typically corresponds to having the pedal down significantly. It can get stuck on old dried up dirty carbs, and it can get ruptured. It has a rubber diaphragm that gets sucked down and closes a valve. If the diaphragm is ruptured, the valve stays open and excessive fuel pours out into the venturi's. You can test it by removing it and putting to a vacuum source, which in my case is my lips. I shouldn't recommend this for others. Probably some nasty poisons in gas and its sediments. The diaphragm must be intact, and the valve must move freely against the tension of an internal spring.

Look first for vacuum leaks, and correct idle mixture settings.
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 07-23-2007, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for the help, I will get started looking, Thanks for all the help. David
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