TJ bod lift - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
Jeep-Short Wheelbase All discussion of short wheelbase Jeeps: CJ, TJ, YJ and JK

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of (permalink) Old 07-21-2007, 12:20 AM Thread Starter
Keyboard Implanted
 
Rio_Grande's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Southeastern Indiana
Posts: 4,767
Thanks: 3
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
 
TJ bod lift

I picked up a 1 inch bod lift for my TJ yesterday to make way for the bigger tires I am getting. I was reading the directions and they have me basicly disassembling the entire jeep removing the shifter droping the t case shifter. I have put several 1 inch puck lifts in yj, and cj's. All that I did for them was unbolt the body and insert the blocks,,,, Is the tj that diffrent or are they being way to carefull?

Jeff

Ya only go around once, best to enjoy it the first trip.
Rio_Grande is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of (permalink) Old 07-21-2007, 09:46 AM
Veteran
 
InfantryYJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Kernersville, NC
Posts: 1,566
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
The shifter is set up differently than the YJ, it's not difficult. I used the Tereflex pucks.

"Every time I see someone on a bicycle
I fear less for the future of the human race."
H.G. Wells
InfantryYJ is offline  
post #3 of (permalink) Old 07-21-2007, 05:48 PM
Veteran
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Greencastle, IN
Posts: 785
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Jeff,

When I put the Daystart kit on my TJ I didn't have to do anything but pull the old body mounts out and install the new. I am running the RE flat skid so my shifter is almost in the stock location with the body lift on.

Brad

2001 TJ Built, Wrecked, then Built Bigger, then rolled and fixed again, now rolled again. Do you see a pattern!!
KentuckyCrawler is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of (permalink) Old 07-21-2007, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
Keyboard Implanted
 
Rio_Grande's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Southeastern Indiana
Posts: 4,767
Thanks: 3
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
 
Brad what is involved in installng the flat skid's on our jeeps? I want ne but am not thrilled with taking a saws all or hammer to my tub.

Ya only go around once, best to enjoy it the first trip.
Rio_Grande is offline  
post #5 of (permalink) Old 07-21-2007, 08:41 PM
Veteran
 
InfantryYJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Kernersville, NC
Posts: 1,566
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rio_Grande View Post
Brad what is involved in installng the flat skid's on our jeeps? I want ne but am not thrilled with taking a saws all or hammer to my tub.
No sawzall or hammer, but you need to get some good hole saw bits. You need to drill six(I think) holes in the frame to mount it up.

"Every time I see someone on a bicycle
I fear less for the future of the human race."
H.G. Wells
InfantryYJ is offline  
post #6 of (permalink) Old 07-21-2007, 10:15 PM
Veteran
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Greencastle, IN
Posts: 785
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
The RE Skid plate is not exactly flat with the frame rails. From the bottom of the frame rail to the bottom of the skid plate is 2.75" so there is a very slight drop.

RE does say to drill 6 holes in the frame to mount the frame reinforcement channel but it is much easier to just weld those on!!!!When you bolt them into place with the factory skid plate bolts weld them on because you never need to remove them unless you sell your Jeep and want to take it off.

When you install this skid with a 1" body lift there is no messaging of the tub, without the body lift you may have to. This skid raises the X-fer case significatly over the factory posititon so you will need to clock your rear pinion up even more.

Here are the must have & good to have:
1. Short shaft kit(I'm sure you have this already)
2. CV rear drive shaft(Again you probably have)
3. Adjustable rear upper control arms to clock the pinion up
4. You will have to adjust your X-fer case linkage
5. I would not recommend it with much more than 4" rear lift springs inless the rear has been stretched or have installed a motor mount lift.
6. I motor mount lift help but is not required

Brad

2001 TJ Built, Wrecked, then Built Bigger, then rolled and fixed again, now rolled again. Do you see a pattern!!
KentuckyCrawler is offline  
post #7 of (permalink) Old 07-22-2007, 10:36 AM
Way Outta Control
 
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: usa
Posts: 10,815
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
 
"""""RE does say to drill 6 holes in the frame to mount the frame reinforcement channel but it is much easier to just weld those on!!!!When you bolt them into place with the factory skid plate bolts weld them on because you never need to remove them unless you sell your Jeep and want to take it off."""""

-- Unless of course you ever want to go with most any type of long arm suspension. Then you have to cut them off, thereby probably weakening the frame in the process.
The drilled 6 hole/bolt method does not stop you, in fact, if you go RE LA's, you use the same holes.

Drilling and Cutting the holes is not hard if you use a drill guide to keep the holes straight.
RRich is offline  
post #8 of (permalink) Old 07-22-2007, 08:06 PM
Veteran
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Greencastle, IN
Posts: 785
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
RRich,

I was talking about the Long arm skid plate, why spend any money on a regular RE skid if you can get the long arm one for not much more.

I was really only taking about the Long arm skid because thats what I have and Jeff knows.

Sorry for any confusion, but do as you please not as I say.

Brad

2001 TJ Built, Wrecked, then Built Bigger, then rolled and fixed again, now rolled again. Do you see a pattern!!
KentuckyCrawler is offline  
post #9 of (permalink) Old 07-22-2007, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
Keyboard Implanted
 
Rio_Grande's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Southeastern Indiana
Posts: 4,767
Thanks: 3
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
 
Thanks fellas I don't kno hat I was thinking. I am planning to put a claton long arom kit on by spring and it comes with a pan.... I think....
Jeff

Ya only go around once, best to enjoy it the first trip.
Rio_Grande is offline  
post #10 of (permalink) Old 07-22-2007, 11:09 PM
Way Outta Control
 
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: usa
Posts: 10,815
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
 
Most, if not all of the long arm kits come with some sort of belly pan. Reason being the long arms attach right above the pan. Most, if not all, use some sort of sub-frame that the arms mount to, and then the pan/trans mount mounts to that.
The pan needs to be removable in order to service the trans/t-case and clutch.

Depending on what long arm kit you want to end up with, make sure what you do meanwhile will be able to come off - or at least be usable for it.

Just the other day we were looking at a Fab-Tech long arm on a friend's Ruby - pure junk! We were looking to see how much trouble it would be to convert it to a RE LA.

The long arm Fab-Tech arms on his are not as long as the RE, and they mount a little different. It uses the stock belly pan with a sub frame.

The reason we were looking to convert it to something better is the stock pan has bent upwards so far the T-case was jammed against the floor and the shifter was so out of position it would no longer go into 4wd. (The stock pans, or shovels as they are lovingly called, are really weak!)

Plus EVERY arm on the Fab-Tech is bent badly, fronts and rears, both uppers and lowers. Plus he's broken I think 4 of their rear track bars, and one front.
A while ago he replaced the track bars with RE track bars, no problem since with track bars breaking, but -.
I don't like the way the sub frame is - looks very weak - the entire suspension depends on it.

We haven't done much yet except replace the stock belly pan with another - after I really strengthened it.

Just think ahead, talk to folks that really use them, not mall crawlers. Make sure that things are reversible if you decide you don't like it after all. Welding on the frame can really weaken it if not done correctly, and they are hard to reverse.
RRich is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome