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post #1 of (permalink) Old 06-26-2007, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
 
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Cam set

Has anyone Bought a cam set, cam,lifters,timing set for 100.00 bucks? It sounds very cheap. It is from Northern auto parts. What do ya'll think? plus any good tips for install would be great. I have a 1980 CJ-7 258 auto.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 06-27-2007, 06:57 AM
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That is very cheap. My feeble mind tells me that I paid around $50 just for a chain and sprocket several years ago.

Only install tip I have is to coat both cam and lifters liberally with cam break-in lube. There should be a tube of it with the new cam. We used to use STP and it never failed, but break-in lube is supposed to be even better.

EVERYTHING's easy for the guy who doesn't have to do it.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 06-27-2007, 07:19 AM
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That's cheap; love cheap. Can be a real scream to do it in chassis, mostly getting the lifters up and out if they are "mushroomed" from wear. The last cheap set I used did not come with assembly lube; I suppose it's one way they save a few bucks. I'm told it's not necessary, but I still submerge the lifters in oil overnight. Following the break in procedure is very important. Dan
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 06-27-2007, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
 
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How about when you install the new set do you have to use a cam degree wheel? I'm still learning as i go. Thanks
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 06-27-2007, 03:25 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muddave44 View Post
How about when you install the new set do you have to use a cam degree wheel? I'm still learning as i go. Thanks
Personally when I build my motors I go with well known brands/company's.... That offer warranties if there are any deffects in their products... You only get what you pay for... If you buy cheap from a no-name or next to the low man on the pole then chances are you're getting the low end products... (Any with them you seriously have to check the hardness of these parts... any warpage etc. You can get a good set of Cam and lifters from Comp Cams for $150-$170, or the other top manufacturers.. Crane, insky, the list goes on and on... (Look on ebay for new Cams and lifters... they're dirt CHEAP!!!! When degreeing a cam you should have somebody who knows the "in's" and "out's" on how to properly measure and check everything... valve clearances, when they open, close @ what specific time etc... If not, bent valves, holes in the pistons and money tossed into the trash...
If you line up the marks you'll be fine.... For off-raod usage or a DD you don't or shouldn't need to degree the cam unless you have the skills or money to have it done...
If you're looking to build an AMC V-8 you could ask around here for info or you could go to Bulltear.com - Home... these guys are all about AMC's building them making parts for them etc... MC, Fuzz401, Mudrat, jeepsr4ever and the list goes on! these are a bunch of very knowledgable guys who've been building these for a long time!!!

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 06-28-2007, 11:29 AM
 
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Degree wheel is mandatory for any cam install, unless you just really don't care how it runs...

You really don't have to wet yourself about a degree wheel, since most timing sets don't allow you to change cam timing without making large jumps at the crank, which is dangerous to valves...

Offset inserts or keys will let you change cam timing in small degrees if you have a timing set that isn't exactly 'On', or you want to advance the cam for a little more horsepower.

Most guys just 'Plug & Pray' when it comes to cams, but there is a lot of power and economy to be had by maximizing cam timing...

The old fashion way of doing it was with a compression tester...
Pre oil the engine, and put it on an engine stand,
Crank the engine with a starter motor.

Adjust cam timing until you have the highest possible compression.
I don't recommend this with todays higher spring pressures and cam/lifter machining...
And cranking on a dry engine is ALWAYS a bad idea!
----------

Anyway, back to the $100 cam set...
BULLSH!T...
You are being scammed!
Find out the country of origin, if it's not the US or Canada, PASS ON THE DEAL...

China or something made in 'Dumbf#%kastan' isn't worth the risk to your engine...
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 06-28-2007, 03:56 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Junk Yard Genius View Post
Anyway, back to the $100 cam set...
BULLSH!T...
You are being scammed!
Find out the country of origin, if it's not the US or Canada, PASS ON THE DEAL...
China or something made in 'Dumbf#%kastan' isn't worth the risk to your engine...
Like I said, for $150-$170 you can get almost any cam from any top manufacturer with your desired specs!
As for degreeing the Cam... it's not needed unless you want to "Fine" tune the motor... Your basic/oem timing set will have only one notch... then you just line up the marks... (6 o'clock and 12 o'clock) simple as that... when you get to the other timing sets, magnums, rollers etc you'll have more options... (which you can set and check for your specific needs/wants)... There's more than one way to skin a cat for efficiency/power in various rpm ranges etc... Example... (Back-woods/shadetree). You can take a stock AMC 304, 360 etc.. remove the oem rockers (1.6:1) and jump up a size to gain a little more low end grunt... you might have to check pushrod length and Keep in mind that you should check the Valve geometry... (especially if it's a used motor)... But by doing this... the valves will open quicker & longer and snap shut faster... etc.. Is this good for the stock springs... NO. You're more apt to float the valves at higher rpms 4800+rpms... (I know for a fact). Did it with the 304... (First Amc motor)... then I rebuilt it from botom to top and ran her at 7000 constant a few times and fried the bearings... Anyway,... Go with a good named/brand cam... Do your re-search including warranties of their parts... Some cam companies won't replace their cams once installed in the engine.. Most will if you follow their procdures to the "T"... (Installation, break-in, oil used etc).
post #8 of (permalink) Old 06-28-2007, 05:17 PM
 
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Here is another tip, spray your degree wheel with some of that oven release stuff, like 'Pam' and stick plastic wrap over it before you start...
You are going to want to mark your opening and closing points (everyone does on the first dozen or so cams) and the plastic wrap helps keep your degree wheel nice and clean for the next build.
Doesn't take long before it starts to look like it was the featured coloring book at a pre school if you don't do something.

I'd use some test springs if I were you.
These are reduced pressure springs used for valve train testing and to degree in the cam to keep full spring pressure off the lifter/cam lobe before starting and proper break in...

They aren't expensive, and you only need one set at a time.
I've even used springs from the local hardware store in a pinch...
Just has to be strong enough to pull the valve open and keep the lifter on the cam when you are turning the engine by hand...
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