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Jeep-Short Wheelbase All discussion of short wheelbase Jeeps: CJ, TJ, YJ and JK

 
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 06-12-2007, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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rear brake AMC 20

Hi

At some point I thought I read (or someone told me) that there was a "junk yard" rear disc conversion for the AMC 20...Am I remembering correctly?

If so...anybody have a link to a write up for that?

Any other suggestions for helping stop my CJ7...? Upgrade master cylinder? hydroboost? ???

Thanks,
Patrick

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 06-12-2007, 09:11 PM
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Uh...

Like this?
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 06-12-2007, 09:15 PM
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Yes there is something.
I can't remember it now, except it involves Cadillac parts.
Include that in you search.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 06-12-2007, 11:24 PM
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I went with https://forums.off-road.com/suzuki-ge...ear-discs.html this setup. Not much of a write up, but the swap is straight forward. This was done on a D60, I did the same thing on my Scout D44, and the model 20 has a very similar mounting flange so it should be easily adaptable.

92 Suzuki Sidekick front rotors. Right bolt pattern, but you have to drill them out to 9/16 for the Jeep studs.

88ish Isuzu Rodeo rear calipers. These look almost identical to the Nissan ones mentioned in the post and I think a lot of the import calipers follow a very similar design.

The mounts are 1/4 plate and they bolt to the top two axle flange (retainer) bolts. I used small vacuum tube taped to the outside of the rotor to space the caliper vertically, then it's only a matter of some careful measuring. I did not have to worry about spacing my caliper to center it at all.

I've been running this set up since since 03 with no problems other than it took a few tries to get just the right MC to work.

A couple of notes: If you go this route, get the caliper end hard brake line fittings and the caliper mounting bolts from the donor vehicle. These are metric. 3/16 brake line can be inserted through the metric nut and flared just fine. The caliper mounting bolts are funny looking with a shoulder on them and probably just about impossible to find without another junk yard trip. Also grab the short section of hose as shown below. This has the correct metric end for the fitting you snagged and will also allow you to remove the caliper for service without taking a hard line loose and losing fluid.

I started with a 69ish Camaro MC for 4wdisc, then tried another application that I can't remember. Finally I swapped in a dual diaphram booster from an S10 Blazer and just for fun left the MC from that on. Worked great. Since the rebuild with the YJ tub (and booster) I am now running a 1978 Mercury Marquis 4wdisc MC. GM MC's wont bolt up to a YJ booster, but Ford stuff does.. The Merc MC is working great.

Here's a pic of my axle set up just prior to install. I would highly recommend it.
Total cost:
Calipers $65... had to replace one cuz it was packed with mud (45 w core)
Rotors $19.99ea new
Plate $12.00
MC $16.00

$133.00
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 06-13-2007, 10:15 AM
 
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I can tell you that with properly working rear drums and a dual diaphragm brake booster you will have lots of stopping power and can easily lock up 33" on pavement. If you use an S10 booster, you will need to mod the length of the rods that go between the booster and the 1)mc 2) pedal linkage. The rear discs may work better wet and shed more heat if you are racing, driving mountains, towing, etc, but may be a pain to get a properly working parking brake and matching master cylinder. I haven't done it myself because I'm plenty happy with the more powerful booster.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 06-13-2007, 10:32 AM
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I got my converson kit from TSC. It was easy to do and it gave you alot of options. The hardest part was removing the backing plate. The kit cost under 300, and that included the brackets, and the rotors and instructions. You had to provide the callipers, pads, and break hoses. You have the option of Monty Carlo front callipers at about $20 ea or a rear Caddy calliper with a emergency break, but I seem to remember that cost around $200 ea. I went with the Monty front callipers and I think that I was within $100-200 of the cost to completely rebuild my stock rears (everything was shot including teh backing plates). I did it and love it. I need to find a low cost emergency break, Ive looked into hydrolic and if I dont sell my CJ I will use one of those.
Good luck....Also TSC can be found in the back of the jeep mags.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 06-13-2007, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepjunky View Post
I got my converson kit from TSC.
Did you mean TSM, The Streetrod Manufacturing Co. Inc.? They no longer use the medium GM calipers.

Disc brakes wonít stop you as well as drums. Itís been discussed here several times and I donít have time to go into it again today.

A bigger master cylinder will reduce your braking. Itís a simple principle of hydraulics so donít buy into that one either. A smaller master cylinder would improve braking but you run out of travel on the brake pedal.

Smaller tires, bigger drums or a better booster is your answer.

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post #8 of (permalink) Old 06-13-2007, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepjunky View Post
I got my converson kit from TSC.
Did you mean TSM, The Streetrod Manufacturing Co. Inc.? They no longer use the medium GM calipers.

Disc brakes wonít stop you as well as drums. Itís been discussed here several times and I donít have time to go into it again today.

A bigger master cylinder will reduce your braking. Itís a simple principle of hydraulics so donít buy into that one either. A smaller master cylinder would improve braking but you run out of travel on the brake pedal.

Smaller tires, bigger drums or a better booster is your answer, or maybe just softer disc pads on the fronts.

There are 10 kinds of people in the world.
Those who understand binary and those who don't.
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