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Jeep-Short Wheelbase All discussion of short wheelbase Jeeps: CJ, TJ, YJ and JK

 
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 06-03-2007, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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Grease Fittings

After changing the oil, I went to put grease in the zerk fittings. A couple years ago someone helped me find all the fittings so a belated thanks to that post.

My current question is about how much grease to put in. As a kid, I remember helping my dad by squeezing the grease gun until the rubber connections started to ooze. Well the 5 lower connections all bulged when adding a few squeezes but the 2 locations located above the tires are not puffing up like the others. They start to ooze on the first pump.

Any help would be great.

Mark2003
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 06-03-2007, 09:55 PM
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Well i dont know what other will say but i pump till clean comes out.
that way uyou get as much water and junk out and push in the nice clean stuff.

88 YJ SOA2.5" 2"BDY Locked F/R Chevy 4.3 NVG241OR 4.56's 36x12.50
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 06-05-2007, 08:13 AM
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One school of thought is that you add until any grease comes out - clean grease is right behind it where the action is.

But I go with Mach2's method. It seems to make more sense.

EVERYTHING's easy for the guy who doesn't have to do it.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 06-05-2007, 08:37 AM
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I used to use the pump till they ooze method... but now I look at the condition of the boot. If the boot is in good then it's keeping debris out. Making the boot bulge with grease never hurts a thing; but if you let grease ooze out and don't clean it up, it does make a mess. Since I was a kid, the compound making up the boot has changed. It's a lot better now. It holds tighter and keeps debris out. Couple that with frequent grease and you'll be just fine.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 06-05-2007, 09:36 AM
 
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I'm a lot less picky with ball joints, one the moisture and dirty grease comes out I'm done. With the U joints and bearings, I'm a lot more particular. I keep pumping till I'm sure I've fully flushed them out, then I wipe up the excess with some paper towel and dispose of it. Be sure to clean the zerks good before greasing, as I'm paranoid about pushing grit in through the zerks. I also find issues sometimes with u joints that don't flow to all caps. Warming the joint up with a propane torch will help if you have that problem. I also lucked out and got some hard to find U joints from spicer from the front axle that have zerks on every cap. Very handy if you have the unequal flow problem.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 06-05-2007, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the answers on how much grease. I guess the second part of my question is regarding the bulging of the rubber. Before pumping I wiped the zerks clean and also cleaned up the squeeze out afterwards. When wiping up the grease from the two connections above the wheels, inside the wheel wells, the rubber seems to be in good condition. Therefore does everything seem OK, that I can pump in 2 to 3 squeezes into five of the zerk fittings, but the two connections in the wheel wells start to oooze grease on the first squeeze?

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post #7 of (permalink) Old 06-05-2007, 10:37 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TiminMb View Post
I also lucked out and got some hard to find U joints from spicer from the front axle that have zerks on every cap. Very handy if you have the unequal flow problem.
My U-Joints don't have fittings, is there any way to add them to the caps like this without replacing the joint?
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 06-05-2007, 11:15 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FiveSpeedWrangler View Post
My U-Joints don't have fittings, is there any way to add them to the caps like this without replacing the joint?
You'd have to remove the joints and caps. Its possible you could modify a new set of caps to be like this, but you'd have to wash all the filings created from the drilling and tapping out of the cap. On this particular joint, it was cross drilled so that grease could flow into other caps from the one you put the grease into. I doubt permanent sealed u joints are cross drilled, it would serve no purpose. I suspect the cap is very hard steel. I once ruined one on a press and it wasnt very soft, it was hard and brittle steel. Good material for a bearing to ride on. Likely a son of a gun to tap threads into. So what I suspect is that modifying one is not practical. You can easily buy the ones that have one cap with a grease fitting. Handy, if the grease flows to the other caps.
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