It's been "done" for about ten days. My CJ7 tub was very rusty and unsafe. My CJ frame was also rusty and slightly bent at the driver's side rear. I found a YJ tub that had some slight damage but was remarkably clean otherwise. I drove about five hours to get the tub and ended up taking the frame too, along with all the odds and ends left in the tub.
I cleaned the underside of the tub and coated it with POR 15 and hammerite prior to sending it to paint.
While the tub was being repaired and painted, I cleaned the frame, coated it with POR 15 and Hammerite paint. I also added to the stock YJ roll bar, resulting in a six pint cage.
I only kept the old dash, hood, and grill which were blasted, straightened, and painted along with the YJ tub, and new fenders and windshield frame.
I think I got the tub and body panels back sometime in early March and have been wrenching hard since. The inside of the tub and entire roll cage are coated in SEM brand spray on bed liner. The dash bar for the cage interfered with the steering column and had to be moved up some, then the liner had to be patched. Oh yeah, the YJ steering column mount bracket is different than the CJ one.
If you think swapping a CJ drivetrain into a YJ frame shoudl be simple... well, lets just say it's not as straight forward as it sounds. I came across a few hurdles... some larger than others.
The front grill mount for the YJ is higher than the CJ mount. One could cut the entire mount out and lower it between the frame, but I chose to install a body lift so that the fenders would line up with the tub. About 1.25 to 1.5inches of body lift.
My rather new heavy duty CJ radiator would not fit. The steering gear mounts much higher on the frame for the YJ, making it impossible to use the CJ style radiator. I ended up buying a new YJ radiator, but then still had to fabricate bracketry to mount it into the CJ grill.
I had planned on using the YJ motor mounts for my 4.2. All of the engine bracketry happened to be in the tub along with several other misc parts. I run a dual outlet Headman header on my 4.2 making it impossible to use the YJ driver's side mount. I got lucky on my first attempt to fabricate a mount and used the CJ style motor mount for that side.
I bought all new manual clutch linkage. For some reason this didn't fit either. Although the YJ tub seemed to be drilled for the pivot shaft, when installed the shaft was too short to reach the tranny mounted ball ended. I had to cut the pivot shaft and add one inch to it's length. I also ended up spacing the bracket for the pivot shaft away from the tub 1 inch to help keep things lined up nice and straight.
Because the steering gear mounts so high on the frame, I now have a considerable amount of angle in my drag link, even with a 4 inch drop pitman. I'm gonna put up with it for this summer, but will have to figure out a high steer next winter.
I installed round LED lights in the rear of the tub and came up with some nice fabbed mounts that allow me to install 4.5 inch LED lights in the front as well, without cutting the grill and using the factory CJ lenses. Next, I figured what the heck and got LED's for the side markers too. Picked everything up from the local truck stop. I don't think the guys who only swap in rear LED's have this problem, but I had one heck of a time finding a flasher that would work. Finally, I found a place on Ebay that some reverse polarity LED's for the marker lights (part of the problem), and special LED flashers. Google also helped me locate another flasher source. One thing to consider... along with the overall content of JP Magazine going down hill... that guy they have giving electrical advice that looks like a moron... IS A MORON. He owes me $11.00 for the first flasher I bought because his little "tech" article said all I needed was one of those little electronic flashers. I should have known better. Anyway, long story short, I was able to make one flasher work to get my turn sginals to flash, and the special LED flasher runs my hazzards, but I can't swap then around and have found nothing else that will work in any other configuration. Oh yeah... I have about $58.00 wrapped up in these two flashers.
Somehow I had to have my rear driveshaft lengthened an inch and the front shortened an inch. Get this, they are now within about and inch of each other in length. Who would have thought that on a Jeep? Oh well, if I twist the rear, I can use the front to get out if necesary.
I got rid of the hop stop bar and welded on some 7 inch spring perches for the rear. Seem to be managing the wheel hop so far.
I somewhat customized the dash by adding an air gauge, temp gauge, and replacing the clock with a fuel gauge.
The front seat are new from Collin's brothers. The rear is a fold and tumble out of a YJ with a new Bestop cover. These covers are the way to go here... very impressed with the fit and finish.
I was able to make my rear bumper and tire carrier fit, but fabbed up a new front bumper... keeping it simple. I also fabbed the rocker guards. They are 3/16 plate bent 90 degrees with 2" tube quartered and welded at the corner. The steps are on inch tube with what is left of the YJ Islander step pads for tread.
I now have three point seat belts at all four corners.
All my OBA valving and the pressure switch is mounted unde the dash and the 2.5 gal nail gun tank fit snugly under the rear of the tub. I ran line to the front for one air chuck. It's already come in handy a couple of times.
I kept my Mud Rovers, but ordered up some Dick Cepek DC-1's in black. Thye were backordered and I went through a couple dasy of he!! trying to get them mounted... but it was worth it!
I am sure there are many "technicalities" that I have missed, but enough with me complaining... how about some pics! The first one is my little guy enjoying the new ride!