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post #1 of (permalink) Old 05-22-2007, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
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semi-O/t Trailer question, wheels etc ?


so i have this really cheap trailer.....and it has split rim tires....which i guess are a bad thing, and no shops want to work with them around here....

so i'm shopping for el-cheapo replacement rims.....and tires, since mine are bald.

so question 1)......what is a "modular wheel" as opposed to a regular steel rim that you see all over the place.

i have a 6 on 5.5" (at least i think its 5.5") bolt pattern...the tires i have are roughly 29" diameter and they are labeled 7.00-R15.....

i think its an old bob-cat/skid-steer trailer....the leak packs are really thick....i was thinking of tearing the steel deck ( its just two long paths for the wheels with a void in between) apart and replacing it with a wood deck that goes all the way across.

it has brakes on one axle....but they arent hooked i need to see if they even work.....

and question 2) it has a 2 and 5/16" ball right now.....but i see 2" ball hitches are far more common. i do want to replace the coupler eventually (the latch is really rusty)....should i go to 2" ?

*edit* question 3) spring axles vs torflex types......i figure i may someday replace the axle.....curious as to how they compare

thanks guys and gals

Doesn't-have-a-Jeep'n Greg

Last edited by JeepnGreg; 05-22-2007 at 11:15 PM.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 05-23-2007, 08:08 AM
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A modular wheel is a one-piece wheel that has not been welded together. For example, the wheels on my TJ consist of a rim and a hub. Those are two seperate pieces that are welded together. A modular wheel is just one big hunk of metal that is cast or cut into a wheel.
As for the coupler, a 2" conversion would probably be a good idea since 2" balls are more common to find and replace and, from what I have seen, cheaper than the 2-5/16" balls.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 05-23-2007, 10:34 AM
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1.) see above for modular wheel description. As for the bolt pattern, steel wheels sizes are sometimes stamped on the inside. Any wheel/tire that will bolt up should do for you as long as it fits inside the fenders. Most wreaking yards, tire shops, etc will have the guage to determine the bolt pattern. Around here the Truck Tire shop will work on split rims but charge extra.

2.) The larger 'ball' is for more weight ....... same for those heavy spring packs & heavy axles. Anyway I would keep the 2 5/16" set. A 2 5/16" ball on your reciever is much cheaper than replacing the coupler on the trailer (unless it's damaged & needs to be replaced). Sounds like this trailer was used to haul heavy equipment (back hoe, bob cats, ????). A two inch ball is fine but you will be effectively lowering the trailers capacity. Removing leafs or replacing the spring packs will do the same but will soften the ride.
I would also prefer a flat deck over one with a hole/slot/gap down the center .... be sure the steel your removing isn't going to weaken it structually.
The electric brakes on a used trailer are probably in need of some TLC. Check to be sure the backing plates aren't bent (common), parts are available at any trailer/RV shops/stores.

3.) Your axles are heavy duty (I can't see them but sounds that way from your discription) so I would keep them! or sell them?

Good luck

"The Heep" 73 Commando, 258 I-6, T-18, Scout Dana 300 w/Tera 4:1 Kit, SOA, PS, Thru-dash Cage, Alcans, OBA, ARB's, HEI, Ft disc, MC 2100,Dents, Mud & Rust.

Last edited by GoldToyBox; 05-23-2007 at 10:39 AM.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 05-23-2007, 01:43 PM
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I like my 2 5/16 stuff, nobody asks to borrow it!!

Ya only go around once, best to enjoy it the first trip.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 05-23-2007, 07:44 PM
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what gold said above.. .keep the 2 5/16... with trailers.. always over build.. you never know what you will throw on it.. keep the axles.. by the lug pattern.. sounds heavy duty.. atleast 5k axles.. tear the brakes apart and fix them.. pretty easy.. as for the leaf springs... you need to find out what your axles are rated at.. and match the springs to atleast them.. you could always take them apart and clean them up and put them back on.. and most importantly.. make sure the deck will not hurt it structurely.. but i would also go with a full wood deck.. when you get tires.. make sure they are ST tires.. Trailer Tires.. do not go with anything but them.. as for the rims.. you can get the white spoke cheapies all day long.. a lot of places on line will sell them mounted and balanced..

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 05-23-2007, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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basically what i was thinking of doing with the deck was tear out the middle stuff which mostly runs length wise, and replace it with some horizontal pieces (recycled from this deck mostly) that would let me lay boards length wise ont he trailer to make the deck

the deck would sit on the top of the center I-beam

since the current deck would be gone, i could remove the current supports under there and move them up into the trailer to support the wood boards.

i'd add some bed to the front and extend the rear just a little.

and then cannibalize the ramps into some new ones....current ramps are bi-fold and heavy as heck. I've seen ramps made from tube and angle iron that weigh a lot less, work great....and aren't a tetanus risk.

i'm almost tempted to keep the fenders....even though they are made of 3/16" steel can run the jeep over them and it wont deflect.

this is the trailer and what i was thinking of doing

Doesn't-have-a-Jeep'n Greg
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