TJ door hinge Torx bolt removal - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 05-19-2007, 12:12 AM Thread Starter
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TJ door hinge Torx bolt removal

TJ door hinge bolts -- darn Torx

I could weld a nut on, but it would hurt the paint on the hinge and? I'd rather not damage anything else.

Any tricks?
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 05-19-2007, 02:37 AM
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Sometimes, several; sharp, fast, but not overly hard whacks with a light hammer on the end of the bolt, can help brake the rust and or paint bonds to loosen the bolt. I like to put the Trox socket in the bolt and hit the socket. The idea is not to hit to hard. The blow should be fast but not too hard, the hammer should bounce away at once. Using a light hammer at high speed works best. The hammer should litterally bounce off causing no damage. It is hard to discribe and is a feel kind of thing.

This tends to cause a large impact load that helps brake paint and rust bonds, and if the Trox socket is hit this can also helps the Torx bit get better settled into the bolt which is often painted preventing a good seating. This makes it harder for the Torx head bolt from rounding off.

It does not always work but is worth a shot.

Wilhelm

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Last edited by bandhmo2; 05-19-2007 at 02:40 AM.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 05-20-2007, 07:15 AM
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If it is like the tailgate bolts I had to drill them out till the head poped off, It wasn't rust, or paint, It was corrosion that had them siezed.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 05-20-2007, 09:49 AM Thread Starter
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It seems the problem is the tuff undercoating type stuff on the inside of the bolts. Looks like they coated under the cowl AFTER the hinges were installed - or at least while the undercoating was still wet. The stuff they used is almost like cement, sealing the threads so the bolt can't come out through the threaded cowl. The stuff coats the bolts so much you can't even see the threads.

We took apart a YJ's dash to see the inside end of the bolts. The YJ's dash had to be partially remopved just to see the problem, TJ's are much much worse!

I'm wondering if the easy way might be to drill the heads off till the mirror bracket can be removed, then slot the end of the remaining stud from the bolt, and screw it INWARD. Then it's not trying to pull the cement through the threads. Hopefully it'll fall inside to the floor without getting caught in the dash's electronics.

Anybody tried that?
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 05-20-2007, 12:21 PM
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Sounds like a good idea. If you have or could get a left hand easy out it may work better than slotting. Too bad the bolts go into threads in the cowl rather than nuts.

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 05-21-2007, 11:01 AM
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If you have'nt drilled them out yet try this. First grind the tip of the torx socket off creating a flat surface. Attach to a driver and place a "C" clamp on it holding the socket in the bolt. Tighen to the point of just barly being able to turn it with the driver. (use the piviot end of the clamp) This will keep the socket from trying to walk out and the flat surface of the torx bit will bite into the bottom of the bolt. This has worked form many of times.
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