Itís gotta be a fight, donít it?
I didnít just throw some comment up there to pad my post count. This is a classic problem that is almost always loose or dirty battery cable. I couldnít count how may Iíve fixed. The last one was a couple of months ago. I got as call from the daughter-in-law. She started to go to lunch and her car wouldnít start, starter solenoid just clicks. My son was out of town so she called me. I packed up some tools, not being sure what Iíd find, and headed out.
First thing I did was turn on the headlights. That will tell you a lot. Headlights bright but car wonít start, probably blown fuse or bad connection somewhere. Headlights dim, bad connection or bad battery. The headlights were dim but the battery had just been replaced last month, both are clues. Now I wonder, did the guy that replaced the battery get the cables tight? I grabbed the battery end of the first cable and it moved. Top post battery, posts not quite round, vibrations caused the cable end to turn to a point where it was loose. Twisted the cable back to where it was tight and called the daughter-in-law on the cel phone. Told her to bring her keys and come start her car (Note: I didnít even have the keys yet.).
She started it right up. I had her shut it down. I moved the cable back to the loosest point and tightened the clamp bolt down there so it couldnít move around again.
In this thread, Iím hearing,
I think we are not reading the post fully....
I read it before I posted my thoughts.
Please explain this.
However, while the key was in the "run" possition, i noticed that i was not getting a reading on the volt meter, but the cd player, lights, and fan(heat) were all working
There is a logical explanation for it. Iím real sure these all come off the ACC feed.
We donít know about ignition, the fact that the engine didnít start does not mean that there was no current to the ignition.
We do have,
When i went to krank the second time, i just got a clicking noise, like i had a dead batterie, except i know its not dead becuase it turned over fine 15 seconds prior.
Now the start contact is a different contact in the ignition switch so there is a problem there too.
I turned the key, and it cranked and fired right up, while it was running the volt meter was showing proper voltage, but it seemed to be not as steady as usual-the needle was fluctuating a couple volts per second!
So i shut it off, and tried again, and was greeted w/ the same old clicking noise i had been hearing all along. and no volt reading.
Put ALL the clues together name the cause and explain why it caused each to happen.
CD and heater fan work but no voltage reading on the volt gauge
Starter solenoid just clicks
Erratic voltage reading when charging
Starts once, wonít start a few seconds later