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post #1 of (permalink) Old 04-29-2007, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
 
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how large of tires with manual steering?

Hi Everyone!
I used to be a Toyota guy but am now considering picking up CJ :-)
I'm looking at a specific 60's Willys CJ-5 with manual steering and little tires, and it drives nice.

My question is, would it still be decent driving with 31's? The largest tire I would ever consider are 33's, which I'm gussing would really need power steering for. But how about with new 31's?

Also, I don't really do rocky terrain, mostly sand and fire roads, and I'm kind of big guy so I know that'll influence the answer...

On a second note, I did a search and found the advancedadapters PS conversion kit, but at around $900 that seems too much for me on a stockish Jeep. Can it be done much cheaper should I want to in the future?

Thanks a lot folks! Brian.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 04-29-2007, 03:21 PM
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well a friend has 65 CJ5 and he has 30s and its not fun.. He is going to swap in power.
When your moving its not to bad but slow or stoped blows.

88 YJ SOA2.5" 2"BDY Locked F/R Chevy 4.3 NVG241OR 4.56's 36x12.50
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 04-29-2007, 05:02 PM
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My 74 CJ5 has 33's and manual steeering. I have absolutely no problems on the trail or as a daily driver.

1974 CJ5, D30, D20, D44, T15, 2.5" BDS Lift, 33's, Dual ARB's, 4.27's, Front Cage

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 04-29-2007, 07:09 PM
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If you get a '75 (I think that's the year) or newer CJ it will have a Saginaw box of which there are millions around. You should be able to get one from a junkyard for not much more than it costs to take it off. Same with a pump. If you couldn't find pump brackets in a junkyard you'd have to fab some, which isn't difficult. I'd bet that a swap could be done for less that $100, or a bit more if you got rebuilt components.

An older CJ has a weird steering system. The best way to convert it to power would be to start over with a complete new system, which would be a lot of work, but still not a whole lot of money if you went the junkyard and fab route.

EVERYTHING's easy for the guy who doesn't have to do it.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 04-29-2007, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks a whole lot guys.
That is quite a diverse range of experiences! I wonder if the difference between
Mach_2's friends '64 Jeep, which is a bear to steer, and Ecamp_55's easy to steer '75 Jeep, is due to design difference between the two?

Does anyone else have any experience with the older manual steering Jeeps?

Thanks again, B.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 04-29-2007, 07:54 PM
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A lot will depend on the tires and wheels in question. Tall skiny tires on wheels with a low offset will turn much easyer then shorter wider tires on large negative offset wheels. If the line of the king pins or ball joints hits the ground near the center of the tire contact patch (low offset wheels), and the contact patch is small (skinny tires) than the tire rotates about that point on the ground and turns relativly easy. If however the line of the kinpins/ balljoints hits near the edge of the tire contact patch (high offsetj wheels) and the tire contact area is large (wide tires) than turns will be relativly difficult.

Skinny 33's like 33x9.50r15's on stock wheels will turn much easyer than 31x13.50R15's on 10" wide wheels which would have much more offset.

Wilhelm

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post #7 of (permalink) Old 04-29-2007, 07:55 PM
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ya his is a mush better setup.. you just about sit on the steering box on my friends jeep. then you have a arm that gos to a idle are then drag link blah blah.. M steering got much better later down the road.

88 YJ SOA2.5" 2"BDY Locked F/R Chevy 4.3 NVG241OR 4.56's 36x12.50
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 04-29-2007, 08:12 PM
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I have 33x12.50x15's with the black 15x8 Rockcrawler rims from 4WD Hardware (don't know the backspacing, but they do rub the springs a bit at full lock). I also have the manual Saginaw Box (stock). The only time I have a hint of trouble is climbing an obstacle where I need to make a sharp turn immediately afterwards and have the front ARB locked in.....but that isn't gonna improve much with PS. I have a PS setup I got from a guy on here but haven't put it on. I've pretty much decided against it since if the motor dies, the PS dies also.

1974 CJ5, D30, D20, D44, T15, 2.5" BDS Lift, 33's, Dual ARB's, 4.27's, Front Cage

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post #9 of (permalink) Old 04-29-2007, 08:31 PM
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Having lots of back spacing is helping. If you went to less backspacing it would increase the negative offset leading to harder steering. Offset and back spacing are related. Back spacing is measured from the back of the wheel to the mounting surface. Offset is the distance between the center line of the wheel and the mounting surface. So haveing relativly skinny wheels and lots of backspacing leads to positive offset (mounting surface outside of the center of the wheel equals positive offset). With wider wheels and the same backspacing the offset would be more negative leading to harder steering.

Wilhelm

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post #10 of (permalink) Old 04-29-2007, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
 
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Wow, thanks for all the great info guys. I apreciate it.

On a side note, what size tires are you running on your stainless Jeep Jim_Lou? That looks just right. I've never seen a stainless Jeep and that thing is awesome.
B.
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