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post #1 of (permalink) Old 04-23-2007, 05:13 PM
thebighammer
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dana 30 troubles

i am doing a friends dana30 so made a tool to set the pinion depth. i measured the depth from the axle half to the pinion bearing race seat. i measured the oil slinger and the bearing and race together and the gear part of the pinion and took in acount the test dimension stamped on the pinion .it was 2.254 i needed .075 shim pack checked my test dimension i was close with in .005 had my pre load set up and put it in set my back lash to .007and did a paint test it showed i needed to move the pinion out the track was tward the pinion carrier i moved the pinion out put ran out of room the slinger hit the houseing . the piant track did not change i then went the other way and ran out of room for back lash.the whole assembly is new and we are going to 488 gears i think any help thanks
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 04-25-2007, 02:52 PM
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Sorry it has taken so long to answer. I take it this is your first time setting up gears. Keep at it and don't give up and you will learn alot.

I have only setup to sets of gears an AMC 20 and a Dana 44. The dana 44 I did is very simmilar as far as gear setups go to CJ dana 30's. Here are some of the things I learned, that may help you.

1. VERY Importent. Some Dana's used Oil slingers and or baffles on the inner pinion bearing. If the axle housing in question used them then they should be reused. If the axle housing did not originally use them then they should not be used. If you try to use a slinger and or baffle in a housing not originally using them you will not be able to get the pinion far enough away from the ring gear. This could be part of your problem.

2. Your idea to measure the depth of the pinion bore in the housing and calculating to get a starting pinion shim is a good idea. I did this on my second axle setup and it made things way easier. There are however some details that are importent to remember.
The depth marked on is either an add or subtract from the standard depth, or the depth measured in line with the pinion to the center line of the housing (square to the pinion bearing race seat) see the distance marked "checking distance" in these links Free Automotive Differential Ring and Pinion Gear Installation Instructions or http://www.richmondgear.com/ringandpinion.pdf or http://www.ringpinion.com/Content/Ho...lation_Kit.pdf. From your discription I think you measured correctly but It can't hurt ot be sure.
Your starting shim of 0.075" sounds very high, usually the pinion shim is closer to 0.035" on Dana's. It could be that your tool is not mearsuring in the corect dirrection which could lead to overly long readings. I would like to see a picture or discription of the you used, the method I used was very crud and involved a magnetic stand and dial gage and a lot of screwing around.

3. This makes no sence to me "... the track was tward the pinion carrier i moved the pinion out ....". If you could dicribe the pattern using the terms (root, top Land or tip, heel, toe, Drive and Coast) deffined in the links above it would greatly help me and others help you as they are standard terms. Pictures of the Pattern are also a big help.
Moving the contact pattern in the Heel to Toe dirrection is done by changing backlash. Moving in the Root to Top dirrection is done by changing pinion depth. This may seem kind of backwards but it is correct.

4. When making a pattern turn the pinion in both directions, while putting drag on the ring gear this will make a clearer pattern to read. This will also remove any slop in the location of the gears.

Wilhelm

I will start using Metric only when the duodecimal system is adopted!!

Last edited by bandhmo2; 04-25-2007 at 06:32 PM.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 04-25-2007, 08:35 PM
thebighammer
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the tool i made was piece of aluminum .500 thick 6.000 long and .750 wide with a .500 hole centered in .250 from one end and the corner taperd off . i bolted it to the to the left side ring gear mounting half and measured to the race seat with a depth mic. The paint path was good contact drive and coust but it was to the toe side of the gear. sorry I'm use to DEERE equipment first auto axle . there was no add or subtrac number just 2.254 thats all that was on it. once the tool was bolted on it could be set square over the pinion to take measurements
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 04-27-2007, 07:56 PM
thebighammer
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started over with revised tool the first one was to flimse i got a good measurement to to pinion depth number stamped on pinion and i was right there ran paint test it was good put in ring gear and buttuned it up and went for a drive no noise every thing good now first tool would flex giviing differnt readings
post #5 of (permalink) Old 04-27-2007, 10:28 PM
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Do you have ant pictures of the tools you made/used to set pinion depth?

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 04-28-2007, 07:44 AM
thebighammer
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no i do not have a picture of it basic 1/2 aluminum flat stock 3/4 by 6 as discribed above it is being used by a friend to put air lockers in a cherokee
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