-HP 44 housing narrowed to EB width
make sure you do not get one of the hp44's that have the wedges cast into them. these axles can not be cut down.
-Yukon alloy shafts
The Yukon shafts are not holding up well at all for us. Shell out the $$ and get the WARN or ALLOY USA with a better warranty
I have seen 4 of these in d-44's 3 were broken. lockrite, or ARB. ARB for the "ultimate" set up.
-New ball joints
-New wheel/spindle/ carrier bearings
-10 bolt knuckles
why? I have d-44 and 10 bolt knuckles here. the ONLY difference I can see is that one has the hole tapered up, one tapered down... but either way is fine.
-ttb spindles/ hubs/rotors
-chevy caliper brackets/calipers
I wouldn't use the chevy disk/caliper thingy (like I am).
-warn hubs/ flanges depending on the run
-knuckle over steering with 7/8" 1 ton tre's, 1.5x.250 wall tubing, hydro assist if cash allows
Histeer would be better of it doesn't hit the frame. Make sure the tube is DOM.
Here is what I am running:
HP 44 cut to 62"
Warn inner and outer shafts
Moog ball joints
10 bolt knuckles
chevy small bearing spindles w/ ford rotors and chevy brakes
junk yard drive flanges for when I break the warn hubs
knuckle over steering with .250 wall 1.5" DOM tie rod and drag link. the drag link goes to a high steer arm on the passenger side flat top knuckle with chevy 3/4 ton tie rod ends.
I have not broken any of the components in my front axle.
-Currie race + nodular third
I'd just run a NASCAR 3rd with a detroit in it already. you can get them with 4.56 and 4.88 gears installed for under $500. This does mean that you can not run the 35 spline shafts though.
-nodular daytona pinion support, 3.25 carrier bearings
-35 spline shafts
-35 spline spool 3.25 bearings
-New bearings throughout
I don't think it needs it unless you plan to catch BIG air.
-skid plate for the $$$$$$ third
you know the ultimat 9" uses the truhi9 3rd member, but it has to cost a lot.
That combo sound like a winner? It's not exactly cheap but it should last for ever with 36's and a mild motor