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post #1 of (permalink) Old 04-17-2007, 09:35 PM
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info on mosher axles....

I've never heard of them, I'm lookin at a 76 cj-5 with mosher axles and I just wanted to know how they perform/compare to others
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 04-17-2007, 09:41 PM
 
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If its Moser, Moser Engineering they are a well know brand of aftermarket axles for jeeps. A lot of CJ's from a certain era came with AMC20 rear axles (perfectly round diff cover) which had a 2 piece axle on each side. The two pieces were a straight axle with a tapered splined end, and a flange that was pressed onto it by a large nut on the end of the axle. The splines would stip out and the flange spun on the axle. The Moser 1 pce axle solved the problem by eliminating the two pieces.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 04-17-2007, 10:24 PM
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Your talkin to a guy who is just getting into the off road game, so I was confused to say the least about what you said
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 04-18-2007, 12:05 AM
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One of the best upgrades you can make to your CJ if you're going to keep the AMC20 (I've got a set in mine...).

The Moser axle was an aftermarket replacement for the OEM rear axle shafts. When the OEM axle breaks, the axle shaft comes out of the housing... with the wheel attached. That means you can be doing 70mph on the freeway and one of your rear axles can pass you. It's not going to be a good few minutes.

Here's a good primer on the AMC20

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 04-18-2007, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LEVE View Post
One of the best upgrades you can make to your CJ if you're going to keep the AMC20 (I've got a set in mine...).

The Moser axle was an aftermarket replacement for the OEM rear axle shafts. When the OEM axle breaks, the axle shaft comes out of the housing... with the wheel attached. That means you can be doing 70mph on the freeway and one of your rear axles can pass you. It's not going to be a good few minutes.

Here's a good primer on the AMC20
Yes, … No, … Not exactly, … but very misleading.

ALL semi-floating rear axles can slip out of the housing. For a Model 20 anyway, the axle doesn’t hold itself in place. The axle bearings hold the axles in place. Some axles have clips at the differential, the Model 20 does not.

In a semi-floater, the rear axle is supported by an axle bearing outboard and the differential carrier inboard. The axles support the weight of the rear of the Jeep. If you were to break an axle, there would be two pieces each only supported at one end. With the weight of the Jeep on the piece of axle only supported in one place, the axle would be free to flop around inside the housing. The resulting wobble would eventually destroy the axle bearing. If run long enough, yeah, the rear wheel, tire, brake drum and piece of axle could slip out the end of the axle and drop that rear corner of the Jeep to the pavement.

The one-piece axle does little or nothing to address this problem. One might argue that the axles are a bit stronger or that the axle bearings are slightly better but still, at the end of the day, it’s a semi-floater. If this problem is a concern for you, full-floating axles are a better solution. That’s what I have, the Summers Bros, full floater conversion.

Full floaters support the weight with hubs and wheel bearings like on your front wheels, no weight is supported by the axles. My Summers Bros. use the same bearings and seal as my front hubs. I can and have removed my rear axles and driven at 70mph.

The one piece axles eliminate the splined joint between the flange and the axles. If you should break an axle, you would still have the same problems of a semi-floater.

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 04-18-2007, 08:54 AM
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Were they splined or locked in with a Woodruff Key?
Or were both ways made on the "20?"

One big cause of failure with the tapered, keyed axles was the hub assembly was put on wrong. When it was not put on right, the hub cracked, breaking later - then the wheel came off.

Wrong way is putting the key in the notch then pushing the hub on the shaft. The key gets pushed in too far and cracks the hub.

Right way is put the hub on, line up the grooves, then put the key in.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 04-18-2007, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
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Were they splined or locked in with a Woodruff Key?




Right way is put the hub on, line up the grooves, then put the key in.
Ain’t that kinda hard to do (read IMPOSSIBLE)? A Woodruff is rounded on the back.

Mine had “self cutting” splines on the axle and a Woodruff key. The key is quite small and just a locator. The axle splines cut into the undersized hub splines for a tight fit. Jeep says that if you ever take them apart, you should use a new hub when reassembling.

The key is way too small to actually do anything but locate the rotation and being a Woodruff key, it must be inserted into the axle before the hub is installed..

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post #8 of (permalink) Old 04-18-2007, 10:18 AM
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Nice close-up shot for you.

Click on thumbnail and then click again to enlarge.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 04-18-2007, 10:26 AM
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OK, maybe I'm not using the correct name - I've always heard it called a Woodruff Key.

How 'bout "straight key?" Semantics?
Parts houses have them in the "woodruff key" drawer.

Chrysler, Nash, Hudson, Studebaker and many others including Jeep in the 50's used the tapered shafts with a "Key." Jeep continued using it for years afterwards.
No splines - the end on the shaft was smooth tapered (not unlike a tie rod end's shaft.) It had the big nut on the end of the shaft. The inside of the hub was tapered to match the shaft's taper. Also inside the hub was a straight cut slot for the key.
The shaft itself also had the slot, but the inner end has a rise to it. The key itself was square cut - but the end corner was cut off at an angle.
If the key was forced in upside down, or it was in too deep, it cracked the hub.

That type usually required a big puller. There are still lots of posts on here asking how to get them off. That's why I thought that reviewing the right/wrong ways might be important here and prevent someone from losing a wheel.
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 04-18-2007, 11:47 AM
 
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Bottom line for the guy asking the question is that the Moser axle is an improvement over the original 2 pc axle that was in there. I've know several people who had problems with the 2 pc original axles (myself included) and the problem was the two peice design (hub spun) and was eliminated by the aftermarket one peice axle. Even the dealors had problems with the hubs spinning. I'm not saying the 2 pc axle can't be done right, as it clearly lasted for years in my jeep until it spun, but given a choice, I'd take the 1 peice Moser axle.
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