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post #1 of (permalink) Old 04-13-2007, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
 
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Tire carrier latch??

Hey guys, building two tire carriers, one fore my Dad and I. We found the De-sta-co and CarrLane brand latching clamps online but cannot decide upon what size or holding capacity to use. We were thinking 1000# would be enough working capacity, but we have don't have the experience with these that hopefully somebody here does. So 1000lbs or 2000lbs? And where did you find them locally?
Much Appreciated!
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 04-14-2007, 01:32 PM
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I used to order mine from some forign distributor out of calif. It was a competition brand to De-Staco. I cannot remember their name. We used the mid range, IE, not the small one, but not the bigun either. If need be I can mmeasure the base and that will tell you which one it is.

Reid sells them as well and has been very good to me when I needed one or two. The real question, as important as the latch is what are you using for a hinge. There are good and bad choices there as well.

If I can help in any way just ask. I buit them for resale for about 3 years. They are simple but you want to use good parts.

Ya only go around once, best to enjoy it the first trip.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 04-16-2007, 09:45 AM Thread Starter
 
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We are using the Rockstomper hinges, I just read some old pirate posts that talk about the problems with these hinges. Do you think these were hinge problems or builder engineering problems?

We were planning on giving the latch end full support and no wiggle room so that the hinge is less stressed. Any tips?

On the latch if you could measure the size of Ubolt threads that would tell me the strength of the latch. From the looks of things that measurement correlates directly to the holding capacity.

Thanks Much!!
Mark
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 04-16-2007, 10:46 AM
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YA, the rockstomper hinge is similar to the one I used. (Same design) Ith problem with them is work hardening due to flex and wiggle in the carrier. I cannot back this up with science or anything but the approach I used was build it strong and make it secure.

I never heard of the hinges breking for the first year or so that the industry started using them. The first ones I heard about were with people trying to make everything lighter. If you use 1/8 in wall material to build the carrier there is an enormous amount of flex in the carrire and the hinge has to counteract that. Move to 3/16 wall material and there is almost no flex. I belive that = less flex and back and forth pressure on the hinge.

As far as securing the carrier the best method for that is a bolt. Most folks don't want to get out a wrench or mess with a t handle. If that is you then you need to support the carrier end on all planes. I wish I had a photo to show this but a brief explination is that you want to support the base and back it with support and draw or latch it to support. This can be done with an upright piece of angle iron on the end that works both as the back support and end. You can then strap around that corner with your latch. If that dosen't make sense there are guys on here that have my carrier maybee they will post a photo. I haven't always done them like that, but when I started all rattles and problems went away.

Hope that made sense.

I will measure or find my order form for the last latches I ordered.

Ya only go around once, best to enjoy it the first trip.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 04-17-2007, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
 
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Much thanks!
Has that weather passed thru Indiana yet? Montana is finally getting our spring warmth!

I saw some pics of a tire carrier with the double latch (one at the base and one a foot or two higher to remove the twist I suppose. Would it help to try and utilize the stock bump stops to help with movement and vibrations?
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 04-17-2007, 11:32 AM
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I have played with bumpstops and double latches but nothing had better resultts than the beefier material. One thing I wanted to do ut never got done was to tie into the tailgate near the top and add a post and a latch to secure it to. I got all the parts but never did it because i didn't need to.

It is warm here. I wish I would have gotten out of bed earlier, they day is half over...

Ya only go around once, best to enjoy it the first trip.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 04-17-2007, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
 
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Very good info!!! I appreciate the thoughts and we will definately use 3/16" for the main arm would 1/8" thick work for the tire mounting portion or is that to flexy or weak or limit the tire size I could carry?
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 04-17-2007, 08:35 PM
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I used 3/16 on everthing and If I knew that the carrier would support 35 in or larger I would go to 1/4 inch.

There is a comercial carrier out there popular amongst the mall crawlers made from 1/8 and they were known to fly apart or get cracks around the welds.

In my expeience 3/16 is fine except when you are adding accessories and BIG tires and wheels. Now if you can look up Thor's carrier, that sucker is made entirely of 1/4" tube and a 2500lb hinge insted of the standard 15/16 hole you have to drill a 1 5/8 hole which skims the inside of the 2 inch tube with 1/4 walls. Maked for a tight fit which is nice cause it almost stays together without welds but I wouldn't recomend it!!
Thor's was made extra heavy because he wanted over head rack, 2 jerry cans and a I believe a 35 inch tire. Extend that weight up 2 1/2 foot off the main beam and drop off some rocks and you have alot of strain on the main beam and hinge.
One thing we haven't discussed is design. How do you plan to design your carrier?

Also the latch I used was 1000lb around the corner latch.

Good luck

Ya only go around once, best to enjoy it the first trip.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 04-17-2007, 10:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rio_Grande View Post
One thing I wanted to do ut never got done was to tie into the tailgate near the top and add a post and a latch to secure it to.
Since they are body on frame, it's probably not a good idea.

"As the circle of my knowledge grows, so grows the circumference of the unknown." - Isaak Newton
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 04-18-2007, 09:50 AM Thread Starter
 
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The best part of these tire carriers is that my Dad knows a local business owner who build steel trusses and that sort of thing. He told us to sort thru the scrap and take what we please! After buying a 3' stick of 3"x2"x 3/16" @ $20 (for the mounting brackets) we were more than happy!

Any way, the materials we are using in the design are focused around what is free to some extent. We have alot of 2x2 and 2.5x2.5 tubing in 3/16 and 1/4 thicknesses. I want to keep the weight to down where possible but don't want to redo this either so we will use 3/16 or 1/4 for everything. The design will be a 3x3 for the main bumper, 2x2 or 2.5x2.5 for the swing arm, and 2x2 for the uprights. My design will be similar to the LOD brand carriers, so a triangle without a center upright.

I am thinking about using two latches for the Jeepster because the carrier will be tilted to match the angle of the body, and I don't that tilt to twist the hinge too much. What do you think?

We do plan to have the cargo rack, one gas can, and a 25lbs CO2 tank on the carrier. The accessory holders (gas can and cargo rack) will be removable and I don't plan on carrying heavy items on the cargo rack. I may never need the cargo rack, but I don't know because I currently carry my 33x9.5 spare inside. It will be nice to have that real estate back!
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