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post #1 of (permalink) Old 02-12-2007, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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4.0L Exhaust Manifold Woes

I have transplanted a 94' 4.0 into my 85 CJ. The original exhaust manifold has cracks near the collector. Can these cracks be mig welded or do the have to be tiged? I could use a recommendation for a very good gasket replacement and a brand/type of hi-temp anti-seize that I can put on the bolts that holds the manifolds on too. Lastly, can anyone tell the size and pitch of threads on the two exhaust stud threads? I need to re-chase them. Thank you for your input.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 02-12-2007, 10:00 PM
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Re: 4.0L Exhaust Manifold Woes

I had success in mig welding the manifold on the Cherokee so you should have the same luck. Make sure the pipe is bolting up without putting any stress on the exhaust manifold...I would suspect that this would be a major cause of cracks...and leaks....

Fix that and you will be fine with a stock gasket.

As for anti-sieze....I use the copper based grease...

Sorry...I don't know the bolt size
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 02-16-2007, 01:12 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 4.0L Exhaust Manifold Woes

Thanks, MIG weld is what I will do then. I will pay close attention to the pipe when we run all new stuff from this tranplanted 4.0 to the end of the tail pipe. Should I use Jeep brand gasket or is NAPA version just as good too use? Cooper based anti-sieze, got it, not the gray stuff. Any suggestions Dawg on the CAT or muffler type to use? This will be daily driver. Duane

[ QUOTE ]
I had success in mig welding the manifold on the Cherokee so you should have the same luck. Make sure the pipe is bolting up without putting any stress on the exhaust manifold...I would suspect that this would be a major cause of cracks...and leaks....

Fix that and you will be fine with a stock gasket.

As for anti-sieze....I use the copper based grease...

Sorry...I don't know the bolt size

[/ QUOTE ]
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 02-16-2007, 05:52 AM
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Re: 4.0L Exhaust Manifold Woes

TIG welding with a nickel filler rod would probably be better. I've had good success with very careful temperature control. Just get the base metal hot enough that the filler wets the surface and flows out. Very much hotter and it doesn't want to stick.
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