Started the install of the lock right in my 44 rear on Saturday. Jacked up the Jeep and put it on secure stands. Pulled the wheels and drums, then removed the diff cover to drain. Popped the caps in the flange, then removed the nuts from the backing plates. Pulled the axles to clear the carrier, using the drum replaced backwards on the lugs as a slide hammer. Marked the bearing caps and removed them, then pulled the carrier keeping the races in place so as not to mix them. Selected what appeared to be an appropriate sized punch to remove the roll pin, and proceded to tap it out. Got the punch stuck in the roll pin! It wouldn't come out, not even by locking vice grips onto the punch and hitting it with a hammer, taking care to not hit the bearing. Had to weld a nut onto the punch, and use a slide hammer to get the punch out. Finally got the punch removed, and using a LONG punch borrowed from my neighbor (who always ends up bailing me out), removed the roll pin, cross shaft, side gears and thrust washers. Upon inspection of the cross shaft, found it to be grooved, galled and scored. At 3pm Saturday, I was out of luck. Only thing left to do was clean parts, and do some other work like installing new locking front hubs.
I'll order the new cross shaft and roll pin today as soon as National 4WD opens, and finish the job during the evenings this week.
Thanks to all who offered their valuable advice, and especially to John Snyder for his compressor, assistance, persistence, and moral support.
Overall, I don't think this will be as difficult as I originally thought. I'll post the rest of the story as it unfolds.


Lynn
'71/'48/'97

Hey Lynn!
The cross shaft does have a long flat side to it from the factory. As for the burn and gouge marks, you better look over the teeth on the ring gear, pinion gear and side gears for any broken ones. If its the side or spider gears that caused the gouging, then you're fine. If its a ring gear or pinion gear thats chipped, then you'll be looking for new ones. Hopefully its nothing troublesome and the rest of the install will go fine. Good luck!
Bill

Sprungover `71 Jeepster w/ lotsa goodies [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif[/img]

Got the shaft here in my hand. The marks are where the side gears ran, shiny chrome-looking areas. The marks are some fine ridges, almost looks like chrome plating over a piece that had fine ridges from being turned on a lathe. At one place, about a sixteenth long and less than a sixtyfourth wide, looks like the top was taken off one of the ridges. No burns or deep gouges. It's just enough that I won't put that surface in against a fresh surface. Ring gear looks like new (sharp enough to cut both of my thumbs), even the side gears had no indication of problems. Years ago, my brother grenaded alot of the driveline in the snow on a hill, maybe this occured then and wasn't replaced. There was loctite on the roll pin. I'll double check the ring and pinion tonight, after I pick up the new shaft and roll pin. Also, bottom of the housing is clean, no chips, flakes or fines.
Thanks for your input.
BTW, whats the torque spec on the ring gear bolts? Seemed like about 40 or so, not hard to get off.

Lynn
'71/'48/'97

Yeah Lynn, I'd replace it too since you're in there already. I used locktite on my rollpin also so it wouldn't work its way loose. Do it once and do it right. I don't know what the torque specs are since I can't seem to find my chiltons right now. Hopefully someone else can answer that part before I find it.
Bill

Sprungover `71 Jeepster w/ lotsa goodies [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif[/img]

And the problems continue. Shaft didn't come in yesterday as promised. Follow up with the supplier found that they had one in inventory, but the screen now shows zero, and they can't determine if it did or did not ship. If it doesn't show up today, my shop will order direct from Powertrax (If I had done that, I'd have it by now!) Oh well, gives me time to do some of the little things while I'm waiting.
Neither my Chiltons nor my Haynes show torque specs for the ring gear or the bearing caps. The shop told me to go with 80 on the bearing caps, still don't know about the ring gear bolts.

Lynn
'71/'48/'97

Lynn: What cross shaft are you getting, an OEM replacement of the zytaniumone Lock Right makes? I think the price is almost the same and the zytanium shaft is supposed to be a lot stronger. Just a thought.
Shain

I couldn't find the torque specs. for a CJ 44 in any of my manuals,
i did find the the torque for Dana 44 ring gear in the front of a bronco, it says "you should use red Loctite and the bolts are torqued 45 to 60 lb-ft in stages using a crisscross pattern". (i'm using a Ford 44 in the front of my YJ)

just for my info, do you need to remove the ring gear in a dana 44 to get the cross shaft out?

3/4tonYJ
<font color=red>My Jeep Page

I had to remove the ring gear to get the cross shaft out on my 78 3/4 ton chevy dana 44 with 3.73 gears.

Greg
89 XJ, 83 CJ-7, 79 Blazer, 67 CJ-5

Definitely had to remove ring gear, shaft won't clear the teeth. Thanks for the torque specs. I've got the loctite at home on the bench, bolts and ring gear are clean and oil free (thanks, John!) and will be installed in their original holes since I didn't get new bolts. Also thanks for the reminder on the torque pattern, not sure if I would have remembered to do that in my haste...

Lynn
'71/'48/'97

I've got the Zy shaft on order. Placed order Monday, supposed to be in Tues noon. No show. Supplier says inventory showed one, now shows zero, but can't confirm shipment. No show Wednesday, either. Supplier now says it shipped Tues UPS. Maybe it'll be in today?

Lynn
'71/'48/'97