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post #1 of (permalink) Old 09-09-2006, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
 
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How do I run permanent diff lock?

Hi guys,

How can i make my front jeep slip diff to run permanent diff lock?
I have heard that there is something you can weld on the front diff to make this possible?

Regards
McGav
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 09-09-2006, 01:42 PM
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Re: How do I run permanent diff lock?

search for Fozzy Locker or Lincoln Locker
IMHO
It's cheap & it works but not what I would do on a daily driver .... possibly not on my trail rig either.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 09-09-2006, 02:01 PM
 
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Re: How do I run permanent diff lock?

What kind of Jeep do you have? Unless you have hub or axle disconnects, it's not a good idea. It will drasticly reduce your steering ability when in 4wd and without a disconnect it won't matter if you're in 4wd or not, steering will suck all the time.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 09-09-2006, 02:10 PM
 
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Re: How do I run permanent diff lock?

People that like broken parts and not being able to turn a corner without backing up 20 times weld the spider gears to the axle gears.
that effectively makes a spool out of your front diff.

Welding on the hardened steel of the gears also causes problems with the heat treating...
So effectively there are two types of 'Welded' differentals, Those that have broken, and those that will break.

I think a 'Slectable' or 'Switchable' locker is probably a better idea.
Locket front wheels when you need them, unlocked with the flip of a switch so you can make corners and don't twist axles & U joints off on hard surfaces. (like paved roads)

A 'Posi' unit for the front is also a viable option unless you have a situation you MUST have all 4 wheels pulling all the time...
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 09-09-2006, 02:58 PM
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Re: How do I run permanent diff lock?

Let's just pretend you could get a welded set of gears to run effectively. You'll pay more in tire wear that you ever would for a mechanical, or selectable locker. Get a Detroit, EZlock, Aussie Locker, or step up to the ARB Locker and be done with it. Being in South Africa, an Aussie Locker may be less expensive.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 09-09-2006, 03:18 PM
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Re: How do I run permanent diff lock?

[ QUOTE ]
People that like broken parts and not being able to turn a corner without backing up 20 times weld the spider gears to the axle gears.

[/ QUOTE ]

Mine was welded (TIG & alloy filler)... side gears to the spider gears and all to the carrier... Fortunately, I have yet to break anything in the driveline (save a u-joint)& can assure you I dislike breaking stuff as much as the next guy! OTOH, I only have about 5 years running welded Tellico, WindRocks, Callalantee, & URE, have a little V8 and am skeered of the skinny pedal... obviously not comparable to sitting in the backyard on blocks or back & forth to the mall. And all this time I assumed it was the 104" WB that made turning so hard...
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 09-09-2006, 04:28 PM
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Re: How do I run permanent diff lock?

There are many times in addition to turning when you DON'T want it locked.
I demonstrated that just yesterday with my Rubi. I was coming down a long steep and very slippery hill - rocks from about 1 inch to 1 foot around on top of sand. The rear kept trying to go first - it was hard to stay on the path. About 1/2 way down I realized I had the rear locker engaged. I turned if off, then it straightened out and became docile.

And - a few days ago I went through a narrow Vee notch. First time through I was unlocked - went right through like it was nothing.

A few minutes later I had to go back and Winch someone - I went a different way back to him. Afterwards I still had both ends locked and went through the Vee again. Being locked the wheels couldn't turn independantly, they both had to turn the same amount. One side needed to travel a little farther, so it broke traction, the left side slid into the notch. Stuck! The lockers got me in trouble!
I turned them off and was able to back out. Tried it again unlocked - went right on through easy.

Sometimes locked really helps, sometimes it works against you. Switchable, once you've had it, is worth every penny!

Unlike a woman, you can switch them off when you've had enough!
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 09-09-2006, 10:53 PM
 
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Re: How do I run permanent diff lock?


We had tons of 'Mud Bug' guys around here when I was young.
Fun to see them try an drive on gravel roads...
(and we lived WAY out on gravel roads!)

Pretty funny to see them in the snow and Ice too!

We had miles and miles of sand roads down by the river, and that was always fun to see them buried up to the axles still spinning all 4 tires trying to get moving...

I'm all for Spools, but I've just seen too may welded up diffs turned into shrapnel at the race tracks (Drags, Mud, Pulls)

I am dually impressed with a friend of mine's new Alburn selectable!
Didn't get my hands dirty one time in five hours of rivers bottoms fence checking!
Expensive, but worth every penny for not having to get out and beat my own butt!

I'm not sure I'm correct on this, but I think Alburn is doing a promotion on one of the newer selectable lockers, but I'm just not in the market right now.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 09-10-2006, 12:16 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: How do I run permanent diff lock?

What are some better options that you would recommend? It looks - hands down like a bad idea to weld it to make lock diff. What would you suggest as an alternative solution? (Noted that it costs more)

I see Jeep Creep suggested an Aussie locker. Could anyone explain what an Aussie locker is?...or any other suggestion to effectively switch to diff lock and back.
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 09-10-2006, 03:55 PM
 
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Re: How do I run permanent diff lock?

I run a welded rear and full spool front (i would have welded the front if i had the right carrier). Everyone I wheel with has atleast a welded rear, some welded fronts. We usually wheel muddy trails, not a ton of huge rocks be we do on occasion. Around here there isn't much money and being able to drop $500 on a detroit locker or even $200 on a lock right just isn't in the cards for most people.

I have never seen a welded diff break though it does happen, usually the ring and pinion goes first. Running my spooled front i have lost 1 u-joint cap and no matter what locker i had i would have broken. My turning radius is kinda hurt though i do run a 110" wheelbase and i also have issues with tires rubbing on the springs hurting my turning radius. As far as steering effort goes the worse part is on the street when the drive flanges are in, you really notice it there. Offroad as long as my tires arn't bound up you don't notice it. In the rocks it does take more effort. I am going to go with hydro assist one of these days to make up more the greater turning effort.

I don't drive my rig daily though i do drive it on the street with the drive flanges in (front end always spinning) and i don't mind it. You occasionly get some tire barking on the pavement. I do trailer my rig to far away trails and i worried about trying to drive it in the winter, i think it's not going to be fun. Would i do it again, you bet, they are cheap, simple, and reliable.
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