Join Date: Aug 2000
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Re: How do I run permanent diff lock?
I run a welded rear and full spool front (i would have welded the front if i had the right carrier). Everyone I wheel with has atleast a welded rear, some welded fronts. We usually wheel muddy trails, not a ton of huge rocks be we do on occasion. Around here there isn't much money and being able to drop $500 on a detroit locker or even $200 on a lock right just isn't in the cards for most people.
I have never seen a welded diff break though it does happen, usually the ring and pinion goes first. Running my spooled front i have lost 1 u-joint cap and no matter what locker i had i would have broken. My turning radius is kinda hurt though i do run a 110" wheelbase and i also have issues with tires rubbing on the springs hurting my turning radius. As far as steering effort goes the worse part is on the street when the drive flanges are in, you really notice it there. Offroad as long as my tires arn't bound up you don't notice it. In the rocks it does take more effort. I am going to go with hydro assist one of these days to make up more the greater turning effort.
I don't drive my rig daily though i do drive it on the street with the drive flanges in (front end always spinning) and i don't mind it. You occasionly get some tire barking on the pavement. I do trailer my rig to far away trails and i worried about trying to drive it in the winter, i think it's not going to be fun. Would i do it again, you bet, they are cheap, simple, and reliable.