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post #1 of (permalink) Old 11-06-1999, 07:50 AM Thread Starter
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Motocarb 2150 Questions

[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] As part of the re-smogging of our heretofore illegal hot rod 304, we have acquired a nice 2150 Motocraft carb and a two-barrel stock intake manifold. I have two questions: (1) Is there a problem with "dieseling" such that we need the idle solenoid that is on the carb? This carb came from a '91 Waggy 360, was there a problem with "run on" on those models? Our 304 would never "diesel" after ignition off with the hot rod 4 BBL Holly, but there IS a wire shown on the diagram to feed an idle solenoid on automatic transmission models; which we DO have a TH400. (2) I noticed that we have both a choke "stove" warm air intake for the choke body, AND an electric heater connection on the choke; the wiring diagram is a bit unclear as to the power supply. Is it continuous with oil pressure rise? Is the electric heat just the pre-heater, before the exhaust gasses warm the choke stove loop? This CJ was RADICALLY hot rodded, and not only was the equipment removed, but also the circuitry that ran it, so it's been a real magnifying glass-on-the-wiring-diagram job to restore everything. I'm pretty sure that a special pressure switch goes with the electric choke; but the wiring diagram shows no such circuit. Were the '79 CJs with the 304 set up with no electric choke heat?.....only the choke stove vacuum line?[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 11-06-1999, 11:58 AM
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Re: Motocarb 2150 Questions

You are right about the choke heater originaly having an oil pressure switch. It is a 2 pronged switch that tees into the fitting on the side of the block. It interupts the power to the choke until the engine is running. The purpose is to keep the choke from heating when the engine is cold and you have the ignition key on to use the accessories etc. The choke and the carb idle solenoid get their power from the "ignition hot" wire, usually red with a white tracer, check with a test light. In CA, you will have to connect the choke wire for legality, but it will run fine without it if you connect the stove heater. The purpose is to heat the choke faster, so it opens sooner. The solenoid won't usually be needed, in fact late SJ Wagoneers had a recall that eliminated the solenoid and subtituted a dampner to retard the throttle closing. If you have it, I would wire it in though. The solenoid idle speed should be around 650, the base idle speed around 500 rpm, this will prevent dieseling. The 2150 works pretty well as it has an aneroid on the rear that compensates for changes in altitude. If you rebuild it, be sure not to over tighten the aneroid screws as it is easily warped causing a major vacuum leak. Hope this helps, good luck.

post #3 of (permalink) Old 11-06-1999, 12:22 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Motocarb 2150 Questions

[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Thanks for furnishing that piece to this puzzle. I suppose that I could look for a choke spring/housing off an earlier carb that did not have the heater element inside, although the heater may come in handy, the 304 runs well when it is cold so the choke could come off early. I already have two switches on the oil manifold, one for the gauge and one for a "check engine" light system that we installed. Those darn 304s do not have any other plugs on the block, so I guess it means a little oil manifold for all this stuff. The check engine system works on (-) so it won't close the choke unless I use a relay. I have ONE more question. On this '91 Waggy 2150, there is a diaphram in the front, upside down, under the bowl, it had a vacuum line connected to it. The CJ book shows 2150 carbs but they do not have that. What is it, and does the hose go to anything.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif[/img] By the way. A friend of mine has a Stuart tank, circa 1943. Do you know what that is? [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 11-06-1999, 01:20 PM
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Re: Motocarb 2150 Questions

The diaphram under the carb is the power valve housing. It has an external 1/4" hose that normally hooks up to the vacuum fitting beind the carb on the runner for cylinders 5 & 8. The earlier carbs had internal power valve porting for vacuum. The newer carb is easier to test for leakage in the power valve diapram, all you have to do is remove the hose, if gas leaks out, the valve is bad or loose in the carb. (This normally floods cylinders 5 & 8). On the switch problem, I have seen 3 prong switches that have a ground circuit, and a circuit that makes continuity with pressure (fuel pump cutoff switch). A good parts store may help you there.
As for the tank, it's either a M3 or M5 model. I used M60A1s and M1A1 models in the Marines.

post #5 of (permalink) Old 11-06-1999, 01:24 PM
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Re: Motocarb 2150 Questions

I believe the diaphram you are referring to is the power valve, if its located between the mixture screws. Hook it to manifold vacuum. I used the solenoid for a 'fast idle' on my 83 GW, to use with the a/c since i had no dieseling problems either. You could use this to increase idle for other things as well(winching, air pump, warm-up,etc...)

post #6 of (permalink) Old 11-06-1999, 08:20 PM
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Re: Motocarb 2150 Questions

The Stuart is an M3. M4 was the Sherman and I forget what the M5 was. Later, Andy

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post #7 of (permalink) Old 11-06-1999, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Motocarb 2150 Questions

[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] Thanks for all the prime info on this 2150. I was elated to be able to get a nice carb like that, especially since we live at 4500 Ft and going to the store is dropping down to 1900, so the aneroid attachment is valuable to us. The three-pole oil pressure switch would be perfect for the setup we need....a (-) for the "Check Engine" system for the benefit of my precious Jeepchick, and the (+)(+) for the electric choke circuit. Yes, the idle solenoid would be useful for lots of stuff, especially since we will be adding A/C in the spring...I'll definitely keep it. I am going to drill and tap the little boss that sticks out behind the water outlet/thermostat housing for the temp switch that is in the "Check Engine" system, since I lost the water outlet in the manifold to the spark CTO. I'm TRYING to keep this neat and clean, but it isn't easy with so many hoses.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif[/img] My buddy bought this Stuart tank from the Portugese govmt, the main gun was torched and the MG was missing. The turret was stuck(I got it free finally with WD-40) and one of the two flathead Cadillac V8s was froze up. He advertised in the paper for WWII tank mechanics, and they came pouring in with TONS of long-lost skills and knowledge...like how to drop the belly armour to get the engines out.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif[/img] It was great to see these older guy's eyes light up[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img] when they saw that tank. That darn thing is a reconissance/infantry support tank, and will go 45+ MPH...IF you have the GAS that is....it's sort of thirsty. Thanks again for the posts...ALL of you out there in Jeepdom. I just love this BBS.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

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