2.5” lift w/ 32’s or 3-3.5" w/ 33s? - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 12-25-2005, 12:43 AM
John Kilday
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2.5” lift w/ 32’s or 3-3.5\" w/ 33s?

’03 TJ stock w/ A/T, D30/44

down to a couple options (I think) on lifting my DD:

I’m wanting to lift for every-other,third w/end day run on Difficulty 3’s, would like to equip for hopefully even the occasional D4 outing.

I'm thinking about either 2.5 susp lift w/ 32’s or 3-3.5” SL w/ 33’s. I interpret from what I’ve read so far that the 3+33 is more susceptible to needing the SYE/CV DS.

One question, is this interpretation anywhere near accurate & 2) if so, I guess I’m wondering is the extra inch benefit(s) worth the risk?

What pros/cons would 2.5SL + 1BL/MML have vs. just 3.5SL (both with 33”s). Again thinking about the driveline angles, etc.

I figure on new rims w/ 3.75/4.0 BS, maybe. But it seems like such a waste to sit on these stock canyon rims (15x8’s) – would spacers be a good idea or not (instead of new rims w/ more BS)? I’d probably lean away from spacers if you thought durability/safety w. them is compromised too much. I guess 32’s would work better with spacers than would 33’s??

Any thoughts, opinions, experiences you can share are appreciated.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 12-25-2005, 05:28 AM
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Re: 2.5” lift w/ 32’s or 3-3.5\" w/ 33s?

John I don't think 3" is enough lift to run 33's offroad. If you have any flex at all it isn't enough lift. I run 3 1/2" lift with 32's and still get a hard fender rub at full flex. Others will chime in, but I think you need 4" plus 1" body lift to run 33's. Someone might correct me on this. Also, I don't see the reason for new wheels--the canyons should work fine for you with those tires. Merry Christmas.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 12-25-2005, 09:28 AM
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Re: 2.5” lift w/ 32’s or 3-3.5\" w/ 33s?

I'm with upalittle on that 32's will rub with a 2.5 inch lift so I went back to 31's lol now theres no rubbin. Rubicons come stock with 31 inch goodyear wrangler mtr's. thats the next tire for me [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 12-25-2005, 12:20 PM
Howe
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Re: 2.5” lift w/ 32’s or 3-3.5\" w/ 33s?

If you don't want to get too radical, you might just want to do a belly pan and a 1" body and motor mount lift. This will net you quite a bit of clearance in the middle even though you will still only be able to run 31's. The 2.5" and 3" kits drop the xfer skid if you don't do the SYE so you loose a lot of the clearance where it counts anyway. You should be able to go a little further and add a 2" spring spacer lift without having to do the SYE if you want. These sell for about $200 with shocks. I wheeled my old TJ for several years with just the 2" spacer lift and had a lot of fun with it. You just have to learn how to pick your lines well which is good experience anyway. The cost of going to 33's goes up exponentially especially if you want to re-gear to keep your final drive ratio right.
post #5 of (permalink) Old 12-25-2005, 03:35 PM
 
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Re: 2.5” lift w/ 32’s or 3-3.5\" w/ 33s?

I know with 2" spacers on my 4.0/ auto tj i had drive shaft vibes at 70mph though cam bolts or putting a couple washers on the skid plate bolts could have solved that. You will need to drop your t-case or an sye with the 3"+ lift. You can always figure out just how far you need to drop your t-case by using washers and then cut down the drop spacers if you don't need the full drop.

As for the stock wheels you will rub on the control arms with even a 30x9.5 tire with agressive side lugs. Spacers are around $50 a wheel which you can buy black steel 15x8's from summit racing for about $35 a wheel. You should be able to sell your stock aluminum wheels and buy the steel wheels, cover mounting/ ballancing, and still buy a 12 pack.

My theory on rubbing is it's not a big deal. TJ's can rub to the point of bending front fenders though if you disconect sway bars. I know i did it with 2" spacers and 32's though i was pushing my jeep really hard. There's also nothing wrong with adding bump stops. A rig that doesn't flex a lot and has lockers front and rear will walk all over a rig that flexes like a slinkey but has open diffs. I'd rather spend my money on lockers then flex any day.
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