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post #1 of (permalink) Old 12-11-2005, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
 
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Semi OT Andy Proof Front Axle

I guess this is OT since it's for the front of my s10 but it's pretty much the same delima a jeep owner would have.

Right now i'm running a yj d30 with 4.56's, detroit, 1 pice non disco 297 jointed shafts. Currently i've blown 2 sets of shafts (1 set i think the caps walked out), a ring and pinion (maybe bad install), and now i've either blown up my detroit or my ring and pinion again though i'm thinking it's the detroit since you hear a ratcheting noise and some times a tire on 1 side will ceatch. The dana 30 that's in there also needs hubs bad and ball joints. I thought the 30 would hold but now after i've run one in the woods i'm second guessing my self.

This dana 30 is getting expensive quick and i need to make an axle decision before i start spending any more money. My deliema is do i get a set of alloy shafts and get my detroit and ring gear cryoed or do i swap axles.

If i swap axles i have several options i'm thinking of though what ever it is it will be around 60" wide, have 4.56 gears, shaved housing, drive flanges or unit bearings, i'm pretty sure i'm set on a spool, crossover/ high steer with hydro assist so i can turn the spool. Adventually it will get alloy shafts and joints. Bolt pattern doesn't matter a ton

Here's my most likely option

Dodge/ ford hybrid axle. Use a ford 44 reverse rotation center section and tubes, newer dodge knuckles, c's, hubs, outer shafts and brakes. Probably use waggy inner shafts so i can get everything at a junk yard/ parts store, no custom parts. This axle should be about the width i want, reverse rotation ring and pinion and unit bearings which i happen to like. I want the unit bearings because you don't have to grease them, just get a set of life times and swap them out at the parts store and finish off your 6er before your buddy has 1 side of his lock out front end greasted. You don't have the typical lock out hassels, Axle shaft swaps are a 5 min job, and they are so much simpler then lock outs. I don't drive my junk on the street much at all so the front end spinning isn't a big deal.

Other options

Early bronco 44
Waggy 44
Narrowed Ford pickup dana 44
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 12-11-2005, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Semi OT Andy Proof Front Axle

I forgot to add a dana 60 really isn't an option due to cost, weight, i'm only running 36's, and i'm going to keep my 9" rear. I would love one but $50 a pop for u-joints and replacement hard parts like axle shafts, spindles and knuckles are stupid expensive.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 12-11-2005, 11:25 PM
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Re: Semi OT Andy Proof Front Axle

easiest solution is to stop hammering it so bad.

I'm still running this axle:
chromoly d-44 shafts, arb, 4.56 gears high pinion 44 center section with TJ axle tubes and brackets...and CTM U-joints.
The only problem is that you either have to do some serious trussing or just don't jump it.
http://bbs.off-road.com/ubbthreads/showf...vc=1&PHPSESSID=

of course, you don't need the fancy coil crap, so you'd be better off with a cut down f-250 d-44... and weld the u-joint caps in.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 12-12-2005, 01:06 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Semi OT Andy Proof Front Axle

Yeah, i know laying off the right foot will help and shortning my wheel base by about 14" (i'm at 124" right now) so i don't get so bound up on trees. I don't jump my rig ever on purpose.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 12-12-2005, 01:16 AM
 
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Re: Semi OT Andy Proof Front Axle

A dana 60 in an s-10 would be extreme overkill anyway
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 12-12-2005, 02:28 PM
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Re: Semi OT Andy Proof Front Axle

[ QUOTE ]
A dana 60 in an s-10 would be extreme overkill anyway

[/ QUOTE ]

I guess, seeing it's Andy, I'll disagree with this. An axle that's overkill, that you don't have to repair on the trail, is a good thing. Cost of repair parts is moo (as per Joey) if you never have to replace them due to breakage.

Unit bearing replacement isn't a concern, as, again, you won't break them.

If you're gonna drive it hard, which you do, and try to climb trees backwards, which you do, and probably go bigger, which you probably will, go get a 60, and be done with it.

For the cost of alloy this-and-that for whatever you come up with, you could go get a stock D60.

In fact, why not run full-width 60's front and rear. Sell the 9", and do it right.

It's time, Andy. Go buy 60's, and sling 'em under that S10. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
Pete
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 12-12-2005, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Semi OT Andy Proof Front Axle

Looks like i'm doing an f250 housing and tubes, 10 bolt drivers side flat top knuckle, i still have to find a pass side flat top, 80's j-truck hubs/spindles/rotors/calipers Yukon alloy inners, 4.56 gears, full spool, install kit, drive flanges from a 10 bolt. It's going to be a mutt of an axle but should work well.

The yukon alloy inners are the same part numbers as warns are dirty cheep and their joints arn't too bad. I couldn't get a 60 though the normal channels (ebay, jeep for sale board, news paper, ect) for the cost of the alloy stuff.
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 12-12-2005, 05:48 PM
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Re: Semi OT Andy Proof Front Axle

Andy with all the crap you aquire, y not just find a whole truck with a 60 in it. Its not as hard as people make it seem.
Just gotta keep looking out in fields, and behind barns.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 12-12-2005, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Semi OT Andy Proof Front Axle

I know i can aquire a 60 but my wallet can't handle a 60 and a 60 with 36's is kinda rediculous. The season for acquiring junk is also pretty much over. I'm planning on shaving my 44 and 9". For the 2 44's and the 10 bolt i'm steeling parts off of i'm in them $75 cash, a case of bud and pulling a motor/ trans/ t-case off of a balzer frame.
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 12-13-2005, 07:08 AM
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Re: Semi OT Andy Proof Front Axle

I don't know, dude. Things always end up costing you more than you think they will, and you spend a whole lot of time doing and redoing.

Out of today's local rag:

79 F250 4X4 plow truck. Runs great, gd as yard plow or parts. Body rusted, Gd eng, 400M, 2 bbl. Gd 4 speed trans w/transfer case. 7-1/2' gd working Fisher plow. Nds axle ujoint. $450/bo.

Buy truck, part out the NP435, motor, transfer case, plow. Sell the 9", install the F250 axles, probably a 60 rear, 44 or 60 front. You'd probably end up even money, or even come out ahead.

Just my $0.02.
Good luck.
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