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post #1 of (permalink) Old 09-06-2005, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
JMZ
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SOA and 35x15.50`s

I would like some advice about setting my jeep up for 35x15.50`s. I am going to put a d44 in the front so I am thinking now is the time for a soa. Am I going to need a cv driveshaft in the rear? Thanks. PS. I am tired of searching. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/sleep2.gif[/img]
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 09-07-2005, 09:31 AM
 
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Re: SOA and 35x15.50`s

It's a pretty safe bet that you will need a CV shaft in the rear with spring over. Hope this helps.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 09-07-2005, 12:01 PM
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Re: SOA and 35x15.50`s

Yes....you will need a CV driveshaft.
SOA is the best way to go if you want 35's. Best lift/ride for the buck.
You will also need longer shocks (don't buy them until AFTER you are done with the lift...then measure.

You will also need new gears...I suggest 4.56. Its'a good time to add that locker as well....save on install costs.

When you do the SOA....a few suggestions.
1. Stock Wrangler springs work well. The springs fit in the front, but you will need a new front hanger. I used a stock rear hanger and moved it forward 1". You have to drill out the rivet, but it all fits nicely.
2. Don't use stock perches. They make longer ones that are better suited to SOA...helps prevent spring wrap.
3. You will need to weld on shock and sway bar mounts. DON'T reuse your old combination shock/spring plate mounted on top of the spring. Some guys do this so they can reuse the shocks. Not only does this limit your flex, it looks dorky as heck. Go to a junk yard, find a Cherokee that has the rear axle yanked...look on the ground you will most likely find the spring plate. Fits perfect.
4. Longer brake lines.
5. Droped Pitman arm...but this will reduce your turning radious a little. Do some searching and you can find some info on other options. If your short on time...then just do the new pitman.
6. Don't weld the perches until you set up the suspension. On the rear, using a CV driveshaft, you want the pumpkin to point straight at the xfer case. The back needs to be a straight line. On the front, bolt it together, take it to an alignment shop and let him set it up before you weld. This will insure you have proper caster.
7. Don't use poly bushings. Just use stock rubber. New rubber will handle just as well as poly without all the squeaking and extra vibration.

Hope this helps.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 09-07-2005, 01:36 PM
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Re: SOA and 35x15.50`s

Just finished a SOA on my wifes DD/mod stock YJ a couple days ago and it is fine w/o a cv shaft, no binding on the joints, no road vibrations or weird quirks. The rear shaft is just over 27" static, this is with a th400 and dana 20, rear axle in stock location, stock YJ leafs.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 09-07-2005, 03:56 PM
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Re: SOA and 35x15.50`s

no you don't NEED a CV Driveshaft. As I learned with my SOA, you can actually run a regular shaft at a greater angle than you can a CV. the CV only "reduces vibs". I've actually considered ditching the CV shaft in favor of going back to a single joint.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 09-07-2005, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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Re: SOA and 35x15.50`s

Thanks for all the input. Can I get away without going with the flat top nuckle high steer? I would like to save that for another project. The weather is going to get real good around here for jeep riding, so I don`t want to keep my jeep in the shop for long. I am thinking about adapting some brand new take off rancho shocks I bought off ebay. They came off of an f-350. I guess I need to look for some wrangler springs.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 09-07-2005, 05:25 PM
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Re: SOA and 35x15.50`s

You don't HAVE to go high steer, but it's a good idea to keep your steering geometry at a good angle. you can go drop pitman to help, you will have more bumpsteer than if your drag link and tie rod were more parallel.
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