OK, so I moved my front Dana 44 axle forward by 1.5" on my 1982 CJ7 with 35's. I did this by drilling new holes in the perches and spring plates 1.5" forward. Everything looks good except 1 thing:

The tie rod now runs right into the drag link because the steering box stayed put, while everything else moved forward. It hits by about 1" maximum. I have my tie rod and drag link flipped to on top of the knuckle arm, and this makes it worse. I have a stock pitman arm, and the tie rod and drag link are 1.25" solid steel with 3/4 ton tie rod ends.

I was thinking I have these options and I need any advice anyone has to offer:

1) Get a shorter pitman arm (negative is that my steering ratio is changed, and do they make such a thing?)

2) Get a new steering box mount, I've seen ones like Sams which move the box forward 1.5" (negative is that I need to trim crossmember for hydraulic fittings). I forgot who sells this, anyone know?

3) flip the drag link above the pitman arm like I did with the tie rod and axle end of the drag link (this is the leading choice, but during full compress, It still may collide, need to look).

4) get a dropped pitman arm (negative is that I only have 2.5" lift and flipped tie rod, this would actually give me worse steering geometry than I have now).


Anyone else have any ideas? I want to keep the axle forward, but this is a hard crash. I don't have picture, sorry.




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I ran my cj-5 like this for years, so does my brother in his 44 mb. They would just rub about a 2" section in the middle. Didn't cause any ill effects what so ever. Still worked great. Out of all the options about, I would try the new bracket. Also remember, if you move the box 1.5" forward, you "might" have to extend the steering shaft which is really no big deal. Just punch out the plastic stops and lube the hell out of it to let it move in and out.

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Just punch out the plastic stops and lube the hell out of it to let it move in and out.

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Just FYI, those are not stop pins, they don’t punch or drill out. The inner shaft has two grooves all the way around it. There are no holes in the inner shaft. What appear to be pins is where plastic was injected on one side and where it exits on the other. You will have to heat the shaft enough to melt the plastic out.

Well, I'm assuming that your tie rod and drag link are connected independantly to your pass side steering arm. Another option is to have the drag link attach to your tie rod.

Take a look at this: parts mike - TR/DL tech

With this set-up, you could get a shorter pitman, without affecting your steering ratio too much. This is because the radius from your steering arm TR hole would be closer to the ball joint.

This is the set-up i'm going with for my YJ SOA hi steering with a '85 Dodge ram charger pitman at about 5.25" (not sure if this would fit your app).

I just drilled it out and beat the thing with a rubber mallet. Guess I broke the inner plastic. Either way works.

I had to heat my shaft over a stove and then pull it apart while still hot.

talk to Joel aka Mav750

hes got the same deal

Rear steer!!!! Only real solution. However I too have made it work with the drag link and tie rod hitting slightly. Post a photo of your setup. Last one we moved forwar was crazy eddie. He got by with a waggie pitman arm High steer, and an inverted T drag link tie rod combo. It ain't cheap but he has 0 problems and box is in stock location.

Rear steer would require flat top knuckles and high steer with rear (behind the front axle) steering. I have not done it but seen it done.

Rio,

On CrazyEddies inverted T set-up, is the DL behind the TR? I would assume so, if the axle is moved forward with that long A$$ waggy pitman.

Can't remember, But I know it was oposite what one would expect, so i am gonna say on the back.