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post #1 of (permalink) Old 03-10-2005, 07:08 PM
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\' 90 YJ rear CV type drive shaft

Where do I find these drive shafts at I and raising my jeep 2.5" and will need a CV shaft as I already blow U-Joint too fast. here has to be some thing better. Is there anyone with a idea for me to follow?
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 03-10-2005, 07:16 PM
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Re: \' 90 YJ rear CV type drive shaft

Tom Woods driveshafts
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 03-10-2005, 08:57 PM
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Re: \' 90 YJ rear CV type drive shaft

I dont see why a 2.5 lift would eat up U-joints.
Such a small lift you can just use shims for the front and rear axle. should be fine. And if your kill U-joints now with no lift. then somehting is wrong. Bad yokes,bent driveshaft?
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 03-10-2005, 09:05 PM
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Re: \' 90 YJ rear CV type drive shaft

mach2_nh [img]images/graemlins/applause.gif[/img] you have a problem if you are blowing u-joints
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 03-10-2005, 10:23 PM
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Re: \' 90 YJ rear CV type drive shaft

Yes I think when I dropped my shaft crimbing a hill that the shaft got bent although it already has a lift cause the shackles are extended and I havw 32s on it but along with the shackles I am installing some springs with another 2.5"
lift for more clearance and the ability to go to 33s. thanks for the info.
post #6 of (permalink) Old 03-11-2005, 07:23 AM
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Re: \' 90 YJ rear CV type drive shaft

There are a few questions that can get asked here, and some more research you can do.

1) Do you get a vibration in the rear driveshaft now with the longer shackles? The rear driveline in a YJ is sensitive to even small changes as the driveshaft is so short. If you do have a vibration, it will eat ujoints more rapidly. Sometimes a slight transfer case drop (some washer spacers) or an angle shim in the rear is required to get the angles just right, even with a lift as small as you get with a longer rear shackle. Remember you are rotating the axle some when you lift with longer shackles, throwing off the angles. This is one of the problems with a shackle lift -- if you need an angle shim, you'll lose almost all of what you gained lifting it with shackles. [img]images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]

2) Do you have heavy-duty ujoints? There are a lot of different quality ujoints. I prefer the ones with the grease zerk fitting in the end of one of the caps. It is a stronger body without the additional zerk hole at the cross.

3) If you go with standard ujoints with the zerk fitting in the body at the cross, you should be installing this fitting in COMPRESSION rather than in TENSION for the greatest strength.

4) When you go to a CV (or double-cardan 'DC' shaft, whichever you want to call it) you can investigate using an XJ front shaft as a rear shaft. Just have it cut down (and rebalanced if you choose to). Unless you're using a lot of motor, this driveshaft should hold up for you. Many people are using this. I got mine for I think it was $35 each, shortened and balanced for about $75 each, so I've got a shaft and a spare for about $200. No doubt Tom Woods, etc., make a great product if you've got the $, but I don't. I've also heard that the manual tranny XJ shafts have a larger tube (stronger) than the auto tranny shafts. Not sure on that one. I think mine were auto tranny shafts.

Good luck
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 03-13-2005, 11:02 PM
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Re: \' 90 YJ rear CV type drive shaft

thanx Pete I was at the local truck recking yard and found that I was going to have to have one shortened to do the trick using the front solid shaft was what I was looking at any ways and I do have vibrations but I have droped the shaft, I have longer shackles although I think that it is very close to stock do to the springs are flat with no arch at all ( no exageration ) and I have 32s with about 2.5 clearance to the rubber fenders, that drag under extreme uneven ruts or bumps. thanx for the advise I am looking into this and need this type of input.

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