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DuneCountry 01-21-2005 07:25 PM

Clutch question
 
I just finished putting a new clutch kit in my '77 CJ7
the kit included every thing, including pilot bushing and release bearing.and the disc had a "flywheel side" sticker.

Everything was identical EXCEPT the new pressure plate, it is a diaphragm type and the old one was a 3 finger.

now the clutch will not disengage fully,it will not go into gear while running and with the engine stopped and I put it into gear and then start 'er up, she wants to creep.
I assume this is because of the different pressure plate and geometry.
I really don't want to put in a hydraulic kit, is there another fix?
I did do a couple of search's to no avail.

Thanks in advance
Greg [img]images/graemlins/scs.gif[/img]

CJDave 01-22-2005 04:08 AM

Re: Clutch question
 
[img]images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img] Stay away from hydraulic clutch mechanisms for as long as is humanly possible. [img]images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img] What you need to do is inspect your existing linkage and see where you need to extend the link such that the throwout bearing will travel farther. Right now you probably have a LOT of free movement of your clutch pedal.....movement before you can "feel" the bearing contact the diaphram. All you need to do is scheme on getting rid of some of that free movement and you'll be fine. [img]images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

DuneCountry 01-22-2005 10:21 AM

Re: Clutch question
 
No,there is no excessive free play,We tried taking all of the play out and it still does not release fully
My thought is that a setup with a digaphram style pressure plate might also require different linkage or clutch fork for more travel.
I have been looking on the web to see if there are multiple part numbers for these pieces. I still have found nothing

RRich 01-22-2005 12:11 PM

Re: Clutch question
 
Did you change the Throw Out bearing to the type designed for the diaphram pressure plate?
THEY ARE DIFFERENT!

The Bork & Beck - 3 finger type - the TO has a FLAT FACE where the fingers touch - the ends of the fingers are rounded so they can pivot.

The Diaphram type has the rounded part on the TO - the FACE IS ROUNDED. The ends of the fingers are squared.

They do not intermix.

As the TO pushes in, there has to be a rounded portion for the fingers to pivot on. Otherwise it does exactly like you describe.

Get the correct TO for the PP.


As far as the PP goes, you'll notice if you go to 10 parts houses, you'll get 10 different types and styles of pressure plates - depending on their suppliers - POSSIBLY NONE WILL FIT PROPERLY. Keep looking till you find the right one.

Hope you still have your original pressure plate to find an exact match! Through the years parts suppliers change numbers no much and try to make "one size fits many" so much that it gets to the point where nothing fits. All the transitions from Willys to Kaiser to Rambler to Chrysler to Krout haven't helped either.


You can tell if the pressure plate is NOT going to work by placing both the old and new plates face down on a table. You can do it right on their parts counter.

Place both TO's on their respective pressure plate's fingers. Now measure from the table's top to the rear surface of the TO - where the fork pushes - the pressure plate's side of the groove.
If that height is significantly different on the new one vs. the old one, then the angle of the fork when assembled will not give the proper travel or leverage.

THE CRITICAL MEASUREMENT IS FROM THE FLYWHEEL FACE TO THE FORK FACE.

Even then, once you torqe it down on the flywheel down with the disk in place it may differ too much. Get that measurement too.


When I went to replace the clutch in my Jeepster, all the parts houses had the wrong ones! I finally had to talk to Centerforce -- they even had the wrong one listed. I gave them the dimensions of what I needed, they were able to find a close match.

Why would anyone think that when the old parts worked properly but wore out, then different style new parts are put in, something other than those parts are at fault?

DuneCountry 01-22-2005 11:09 PM

Re: Clutch question
 
[ QUOTE ]
Why would anyone think that when the old parts worked properly but wore out, then different style new parts are put in, something other than those parts are at fault?

[/ QUOTE ]

That is not my thinking......

My thought was that since I installed different parts then maybe, just maybe, I could save a lot of labor and money not to mention running around by gleaning some knowledge from this board. perhaps by just getting another fork or clutch rod.

This is a center force kit and after speaking with a very knowledgeable rep he told me basically what you did, abit with a little more courtesy ;]

After doing my research, I went out to pull 'er into the shop and the clutch worked perfect!!! A quick fine adjustment and we drove around for a half hour and it acted just like it should...go figure.

jeep gremlins maybe?

I have installed a lot of clutches, from Volkswagons to Kenworths and this is a first.

I DO appreciate the input though

Greg [img]images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

bubspc 12-24-2005 09:30 PM

Re: Clutch question
 
Hi I have the same problem,what was the fix,,thanks

jdoggmoney 12-26-2005 01:07 AM

Re: Clutch question
 
I have found that if you make sure and tell the parts person you either have a three finger or diaphram clutch, it may take them some time, bu they will come up with the correct application. I tried to make a three finger work with no luck at all, thinking as long as I replaced the TO it would be fine.


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