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post #1 of (permalink) Old 11-01-1999, 03:55 PM
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engine bearings

Hi... does anyone know whether EngineTech engine bearings are any good? I'm getting a re-ground crank for my 87 YJ (258) and the shop want to sell me these bearings (they're made in Brazil fwiw). I originally had planned to just get the bare crank and buy Clevite 77s myself, but this guy was telling me something about how Clevite 77s are the same old Michigan 77 "junk" and that the EngineTech are better.

Any truth to any of this? Please let me know... I don't feel like shelling out $ for bearings if I don't know anything about them, however, if they really are better I prob wouldn't get them for the same price if I were to decide to get them later. (About $50 for all mains/rods.)

TIA.

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 11-01-1999, 06:25 PM
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Re: engine bearings

I have never heard of them either. As for Clevite, they have been around a long time. The truth is, about the most important factor on bearings is true size...if it says 10 over, it had better be 10 over. Basic fact, the crank never really touches the bearing if everything is done right...you have that little film of oil between the crank and bearing...hence, how can one bearing be that much better than another if the tollerances are correct.

If I have my #'s right, you want the mains to be .001 to .0032 (I shoot for .002)...i think the rods are just a fraction more....but don't quote me on it. With the crank re-ground then all you have to do is make sure the block is true. Unless the block has seen some real serious overheat problems, it should be ok. I always put the crank in with the bearings and only a very thin coat of oil. Tighten down the caps and give the crank a few turns by hand. Take it apart and look for any unusual touching....if all is right, it should be uniform. I also recomend checking it with pastigauge.....

To answer your question...Clevite is fine.

Good Luck.........John

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 11-01-1999, 08:11 PM
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Re: engine bearings

[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] There is NO WAY I would take a chance on some import bearing when good, proven domestic bearings are available. Just because they get a good deal there at the shop doesn't mean it's good for YOU. As for bearings.....the real engineering is in the mating of materials such that there is a good, durable surface to touch the crank, and a backup material that gets rid of the heat good. True...ideally the crank doesn't touch...except when you crank up and cousin Leroy winds the heck out of it before the oil pressure is up; or when cousin Helen lugs the heck out of it going up a steep hill in high gear; or when the oil is so beat down from not being changed while you are overseas on a job and the "gang" is driving the Jeep.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif[/img] [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif[/img] It CAN happen. Brazillian bearings? I don't THINK so!![img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/frown.gif[/img] Anyone who puts up a crank without checking each bearing with plastigage is courting disaster.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif[/img]

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 11-01-1999, 11:41 PM
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Re: engine bearings

I have run many brands of bearings and 77s give good performance for the price. I always question most rebuilders because they try to save a dollar too. Or the rebuilder you talked to has had one bad experience and now all 77s are bad.

post #5 of (permalink) Old 04-19-2000, 11:37 AM
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Re: engine bearings

Just to throw in my 2 cents. I drive a Brazilian made Jeep with ALL Brazilian made parts - not just the bearings - and it runs just fine. So let's not knock parts from 3rd world countries just because they're not common in the States.

post #6 of (permalink) Old 04-19-2000, 01:25 PM
 
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Re: engine bearings

While agreeing with Dave about, why get foreign made when you can get US made,, lets not berate the product just cause it's from Brazil!!! Brazilian made steel and other metals from there, are some of the best made in the world. Lets not forget where John Browning chose to get his metal from for those beautiful made and extremely long lasting weapons he and his has made for over a century.

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post #7 of (permalink) Old 04-19-2000, 02:19 PM
 
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Re: engine bearings

I run federal mogul bearings in my 283. There's a factory real close here in north AL that makes them, i.e. pretty good prices. Have had no problems with mine. Keeps the friends of mine that word at the factory in business.

As far as Brazil goes: I buy American when I can, if the product is good of course. I don't think anyone was knocking Brazil, maybe they do have better bearings. They have very little if any EPA laws and cheap labor, allowing them to sink more money into a quality product. If all you are worried about is a quality product, by a brazilian product. once again, not knocking brazil, never been there. just an educated opinion

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<font color=red>'88 YJ, 4" susp,3" body,33's,283 Chevy V8,TH350,4.11's,D30,D35c</font color=red>
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 04-19-2000, 09:24 PM
 
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Re: engine bearings

Everyone seems to be giving opinion (which is fine if you have already answered the question that was asked...) So it's time for another opinion...
--------------------------------

Facts in short form...
What you need to be looking for is;
1. Crush-ability.
If the bearings don't get the correct crush, (enough crush, no buckles, and crushes round) the bearing will fail.
If it doesn't crush enough, it won't transfer the heat and load to the block.
If it doesn't crush round, it may contact the crankshaft and scrape the oil wedge off.

2. Load-ability.
The bearing has to carry the entire load of the crankshaft or piston and rod assembly on cold start up.
It has to be hard enough to support the load, yet soft enough not to damage the crank.

3. Imbed-ability.
The inside surface material has to be soft enough to allow hardened material, like carbon or metal filings, to imbed in the bearing material.
If the inner surface of the bearing isn't soft enough to allow the imbedding of material, the hardened speck of whatever will stick in the bearing, and then start machining clearances in the crankshaft.

I really can't stress how important the ability to imbed (and capture) 'no see um's' is...
--------------------------------

SIDEBAR:
Heat transfer.
Directly related to how much bearing crush you get.
The heat created in the combustion chamber is somewhat passed to the cylinder walls by the piston rings.
Most of the heat is passed from the piston to the wrist pin, to the connecting rod, to the crankshaft, to the engine block.
The oil carries off a lot of the heat at the joints of the connecting rod to crankshaft, and the joint of the crankshaft to the engine block.
Much of the heat remains, and is supposed to be transferred to the block via the main bearings.
If the main bearings don't crush properly, the heat may not get transferred to the block, and remain in the crank, rods, and pistons with disastrous results.
--------------------------------

Technically, the crankshaft is never supposed to touch the bearings.

There is supposed to be a non-compressable layer of oil between the bearing and the crankshaft.

In the real world, no oil pressure on start up is known in the business as a 'Dry Start'.
(That's why I preach and nag the pre-oiler before starting any fresh engine, or any engine that has set for any length of time longer than about a week)
Contaminants in the oil, such as water, acids, anti-freeze, and any combination of ten thousand assembly chemicals or fuel or coolant additives will aid in stripping the oil film from crankshafts and other parts.

Fine particles from normal combustion (soft and hard carbon), dirt and other contaminants from the atmosphere, normal wear of the steel and iron parts will find their free run in the oil no matter what kind or how many oil filters you use.

What brand of oil you run is not nearly as important as changing your oil in a timely manner, and getting ALL of the contaminants out of the engine by changing the filter at the same time.

These particles do mean and ugly things to engine bearings.
The hard truth is no additive, no synthetic oil, no supposed miracle filter will save you.
The only remedy is to change the oil and filter in a timely manner.
--------------------------------

Now, For the opinion part...
.................................................. .................
I use A LOT of Clevite 77 bearings.
I like them.
They have regularly gone over 3,500 horse power in top fuel cars.
They have regularly gone over 200,000 miles in stock vehicles.
They have regularly gone over 13,000 RPM in racing engines.

I find no fault with Clevite 77 bearings...

Let the flames begin!



.


.

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post #9 of (permalink) Old 04-19-2000, 09:44 PM
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Re: engine bearings

I've used engine parts from Engine Tech. The quality is good. I really doubt the Engine Tech parts are any better or worse for quality than some of the major domestic brands, (like King Bearings, Fedral-Mogul, Perfect Circle, or Clevite/Michigan 77). I've used them all with outstanding results! I've only used Engine Tech parts on engines for daily drivers, nothing to exceed 4500 RPM or 5000 lbs total gross vehicle weight. I agree that crankshaft bearing clearances are the most important part of building a long lasting engine with good oil pressure. If you shop around I'm sure there is a machine shop / parts supplier that would be willing to match or beat the crank kit price your now being quoted; and with brand name parts your satisfied with.
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 04-19-2000, 11:53 PM
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Re: engine bearings

[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif[/img] It's posts like that which cause my moonguys[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif[/img][img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img][img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif[/img]to put down their drinks and pay attention.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif[/img]

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