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post #1 of (permalink) Old 01-08-2005, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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In tank fuel pump

OK, the search function made me mad!

I want to replace the inline electric pump on my 1980 CJ's MPI unit w/ one that goes in the tank. I think I found a pump that will work, and I think I can graft it onto the fuel pickup, but what is the best way to get the wires into the tank? I am afraid that a grommet and RTV will be destroyed by the gas if I try to use them to seal the holes around the wires. I've also read about using a '87-90 2.5L sending unit, but can't find too much info on them. Any body have any ideas?
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 01-10-2005, 08:04 AM Thread Starter
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Re: In tank fuel pump

Does anybody have any info on the 87-90 4 banger sending unit swap?
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 01-10-2005, 08:33 AM
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Re: In tank fuel pump

My son-in-law used the intank fuel pump from a 87-90 2.5L when he built his jeep with a 350 sbc {throttle body}. It seems to have worked well for him and the fuel pump and float are all one unit and is a direct fit in the cj tank. I don't have any info about the wiring however. I hope this helps.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 01-10-2005, 10:52 AM
 
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Re: In tank fuel pump

My experience with the 87-90 2.5L in tank is that all the after market replacement pumps suck... or better yet won't suck. I've replaced 6 in the last six months (all under "warranty") and have had it apart at least 10 times checking the pickup, wiring, and cleanliness of the tank.

I’ve gone with modifying the pickup by eliminating the in-tank pump and replacing it with a length of 5/16 fuel line hose. I had to fabricate an adapter to use the existing pickup sock (or screen). As recommended by the great Jeep gods on this forum, I installed an externally mounted E2000 Master® electric “in-line” pump from auto zone. It is lifetime guaranteed and I am putting a spare in my toolbox. It has now outlasted all five of the NAPA/Carter® in-tank pumps.

With that said, the pickup consists of two inlet tubes, one is the TBI pressure by-pass breed off and runs directly into a flared diverter tacked into the floor of the tank via a rubber grommet. The other is about 4 inches long and connects via a 3 inch long piece of 5/16 fuel line hose to the pump. The pump mounts below that in a bracket. The bracket also has the gauge-sending unit mounted to it. The whole sending unit/pump bracket is grounded via a ground wire attached to the outside (top) of the unit. Two wires pass through a hard plastic connector through the top plate. One goes to the sending unit rheostat and the other connects directly to the positive terminal on the pump. The negative terminal of the pump is connected to a short wire attached directly to the bracket frame inside the tank, competing.

I would find a pass through connector at a hardware or electrical supply. Or make one. An inch long treaded rod, with GOOD insulating grommets top and bottom, sandwiched between two nuts on top and bottom would give you the isolated pass trough connection without the RTV mess, and would seal better than just a grommet. I’ve seen these types of connections on Japanese fuel tank sending units and they work well.

This may be TMI but I +Hope it helps.

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 01-10-2005, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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Re: In tank fuel pump

Thanks. I've given up on the e-2000's. I replaced it about 6 times, each with about 100 miles on them. For some reason I keep burning them up. I'm going to try radio shack for some conectors for the pos. wire and ground the pump right to the tank.
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