Pontiac Fiero Seats Into 1979 Jeep CJ-7
1979 Jeep CJ-7 factory seat installation: Low back seats. Driverís side non-articulating seat bracket (ďZĒ shaped fixed) with slider. Passengerís side double articulated bracket (to allow seat to rotate and translate forward to allow passenger rear seat entry), no slider.
1985 parts donor Jeep upgraded seat installation: High back aftermarket seats (low end non-reclining, I think Steelhorse). Driverís side double articulated bracket, NO slider. Passengerís side double articulated bracket and no slider.
What happened: Driverís side factory low back seat frame weakened or broke and started reclining (on one side only).
What I wanted: High back seats and the ability for passengers to enter/exit from the driverís side or just to be able to get driverís seat out of the way for access to rear seat area.
What I found: Factory Jeep seats have a fairly flat seat bottom cushion. It stays the same thickness from the front of the seat to the back of the seat. Aftermarket and a lot of factory made seats have a ďlean backĒ built into them, their bottom cushions are thicker in the front and get thinner toward the rear. This leaning back posture is gained with the Jeep factory seat brackets, taller in front and getting shorter toward the rear. So if one installs aftermarket seats (tapered bottom cushions) on to factory brackets with the sliders one ends up really leaning back and their fat belly is jammed into the steering wheel. This is why the previous owner did not use the slider under the aftermarket driverís seat in the í85 Jeep. Without the slider and combined with the factory tilt wheel the seat was low enough to drive the Jeep but still leaned back too much for my taste. This position was fine for the lowered (weak springs) Continental I had but not for my Jeep. So I need new seats. The Internet. A beautiful place. Off-road.com, Mr. Leve. Seats with speakers? Gotta have my tunes. High back seats and they recline? Sweet!!! Fieros are fairly common in junkÖ..automotive recycling centers. An old supervisor I had owned one. Seems to replace the starter you had to lift the engine out a good bit. Very pricey. I guess the starter would go out when the rest of the car was getting a little rough and some owners just wouldnít or couldnít spend the money for a new starter. After looking at several yards and several cars in each yard I removed a couple of seats. Donít know what year. They were gray cloth, no cushion damage and the car was closed, not really much rain water/mildew smell damage. $20 each. Tip: Get the speaker wire connectors and as much wire as you can for your installation. The stock Fiero seat brackets and sliders were parallel with the floor of the car, not leaned back like the Jeep ones. The Fiero seat bottoms were a little thicker in the front than the back. The next step was to bolt in the driverís side articulated seat bracket from the donor Jeep. The driverís side bracket is a little squatier than the passengerís side bracket, I think this is to accommodate the height of the slider and make both seat mounting heights the same. Now I needed to level (rotate forward) the top of the driverís and passengerís articulated brackets to be parallel with the floor. The pivot points for these seat brackets are just large rivets but they have shoulders on their heads. Drill out the upper and lower rivets for both front vertical pieces then remove them. Removal the seat brackets from the Jeep might make this easier. I think drilling the centers of the rivets out to 3/8Ē will allow rivet removal and the reinstallation of the shouldered rivet heads along with bolts. Take note of any plastic bushings and washers. Removing these pieces allowed the tops of the seat brackets to rotate forward to be level. The Jeep door entry sill made a good eye ball reference point to get the brackets level. I assume these sills are parallel with the Jeepís floor, at least it looked that way to me. Shorten the front vertical pieces, along with the diagonal cross braces, by removing a section from the middle to get the position you want. I wanted them to be level as I said before. Reinstall the front vertical pieces and diagonal cross braces with stainless steel bolts. I used longer bolts so the pivoting area uses the shank of the bolt not the threads. Use nylon insert lock nuts and washers. By modifying the seat brackets this way and the use of seats with a tapered bottom cushion it allowed the seat location to have the correct ďlean backĒ position but put the seat too far forward. I wanted to use the tilt wheel but not in the Mack semi truck all the way up position. I bolted aluminum, could have used steel, angles onto the tops of the seat brackets and moved the seat/sliders back a comfortable amount rearward. I also had to notch out the angles for the release handles. There were plastic covers over the recline mechanisms. With these on the seats there was too much interference with the seat belts. I removed them, painted the areas, then a little lube. Custom "waterproof" seat covers, matching rear seat, finishes the job.