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post #1 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2004, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
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starter question

hi there

will the quality of the starter have anything to do with how fast the engine turns over or is that all dependent on how much juice that battery puts out?

when a starter is tested at an auto parts shop...what are they testing for?

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2004, 01:43 PM
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Re: starter question

1. A starter is a starter, is a starter... UNLESS...
2. You go fancy dancy like a MeanGreen or,
3. A JCWhitney/MeanGreen/Rebuild.
4. Those are lower geared...
5. As a starter wears: <ul type="square">[*]Brushes,[*]Bearings[*]Bendix[*]Worm Gear Teeth[/list]6. The starter starts to pull more amperage,
7. To do the same job as when it was new.
8. A test should involve testing: <ul type="square">[*]Amperage Draw to spin under load[*]How fast/slow the Bendix works[*]Wear on the starter teeth.[/list]8. As the starter wears over time,
9. The starter spins slower...
10. And it' often not noticed,
11. Until you install a new one.
12. Remember that: <ul type="square">[*]A bad battery[*]A bad starter ground[*]A bad battery cable[*]A bad starter cable[*]A bad starter solenoid[/list]13. Can cause the same symptom
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2004, 03:17 PM
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Re: starter question

The trouble with a part's store test is they just put poweer to it - if it spins it's OK. It's not under load, so even defective most will pin.

The best way to test off the car is with a carbon pile load in series with the battery. Screw the load down tight - least resistance. Get it spinning, then slowly increase the carbon pile's resistance - it'll slow down. You should be able to make it go really slow. If there's a bad segment it'll stall at that point. You can "help" it past that point but it'll stall next time around.
Parts store kids don't know how to do that.

Actually the best way to test is on the car, with it's normal cables and battery. You want a minimum of 120 RPM cranking speed and calculate 2/3 of the CU" displacement in amps.
Fir instance a 300 cu" engine should not exceed 200 Amps. Preferably less than 1/2 or 150 in the example.

Measure along the length of each cable too - maximum voltage drop for each cable is .5 volts DURING CRANKING, preferably MUCH less.

Battery should have at least 9.6 volts while still cranking after 15 - 20 seconds of cranking too.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2004, 05:58 PM
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Re: starter question

[img]images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img] Ninety Ga-Squillion percent of slow crank problems are in the current delivery system. As LEVE pointed out, there are grounding issues to be noted as well as the (+) side considerations. I could not EVEN COUNT the number of times I have had guys tell me: "Oh, the STARTER IS DRAGGING so it won't crank when the engine is hot." As soon as they are out of sight, I install a good quality ground cable directly from the battery to the bolt that holds the starter to the bell housing and...BLAMO..!!....the engine just blasts to a start even when hot. The starter was just not getting a good direct ground. [img]images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]
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