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post #1 of (permalink) Old 06-03-2004, 07:21 AM Thread Starter
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MC Break concern

over the past few weeks there have been a few posts about trouble with bleeding breaks after an upgrade.
My Project YJ is slowly getting ready for the new motor mounts, and new motor. befor I put the motor in, I need to plumb new fuel lines, and new break lines.
Here is my concern. Can I take out the old break lines, and drain the MC...... Install new lines, fill MC, and Bleed away. Or am I going to run into serious trouble trying to get all the air out of the MC?
I have heard a lot of people say that if you can't get the air out of a break system to take out the MC and Bench bleed it.
I would like to not remove the MC.
How is the best way for me to get new break lines run, and avoid all the hassel possible?

Thanks for any help.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 06-03-2004, 08:38 AM
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Re: MC Break concern

</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
How is the best way for me to get new break lines run, and avoid all the hassel possible?

[/ QUOTE ]1. Hassle is relative.
2. Here's the basics on bench bleeding,
3. It can be done on the vehicle too.
<ul type="square">[*]Mount the master cylinder in a vise.[*] Install sections of brake line on the MC. [*] Bend the lines back into each respective reservoir.[*] Fill the reservoir with brake fluid so it covers the lines above.[*] Pump the piston until air bubbles no longer form in the fluid.[*] You're done...[/list]4. Here's how I bled my CJ brakes before ,
5. I bought a wonder tool called a "Mighty Vac" pump and gauge.
6. Do the breaks in the following order:
<ul type="square">[*]Passenger side Rear Wheel.[*]Driver side Rear Wheel.[*]Passenger side Front Wheel.[*]Drivers Side Front Wheel.[/list]7. Steps to be taken on each of the above steps:<ul type="square">[*]Open the bleeder screw and attach a clear line from the bleeder screw into a jar. You want to see what's coming out![*]Top off the master cylinder.[*]Have a buddy slowly depress the brake pedal.[*]When the pedal reaches the floor close the bleeder screw.[*]Release the pedal.[*]Reopen the bleeder screw.[*] Reapply pressure to the brake pedal.[*]Continue the above steps untill you see a constant flow of fluid with no air coming out of the bleeder screw.[/list]8. As for running new brake lines,
9. That's pretty easy,
10. You'll need:<ul type="square">[*]A hand bender[*]Sections of hard break line[*]Line cutter[*]flare/double flare tool (most buys favor the double flare tood).[/list]11. Then:<ul type="square">[*]Remove the brake line you want to replace.[*]After it's cut,[*]Remove it carefully.[*]This bcomes a model for the new line,[*]Bend the new line to it's form,[*]Reattach the new line in place,[*]Bleed and your done.[*]When the Passenger Side Rear wheel line has been bled,[*]Do each of the other lines in turn.[*]When no air is trapped in the lines you're done[/list]12. The brakes should NOT be spongy, but firm when the pedal is depressed.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 06-03-2004, 10:23 AM
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Re: MC Break concern

</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
# Have a buddy slowly depress the brake pedal.
# When the pedal reaches the floor close the bleeder screw.

[/ QUOTE ]

I was told to do it, pump to floor three times, hold on the third, open and close valve while pedal still pressed...Is one beter than the other?
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 06-03-2004, 10:28 AM
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Re: MC Break concern

1. Both procedures work.
2. Pumping the brakes pressurizes the line,
3. Slowly depressing the pedal does the same.
4. It depends on how far/fast,
5. You want the fluid to squirt!
6. Once you open the bleeder,
7. That pedal looses pressure,
8. And starts to depress.
9. IMHO... slow is better,
10. As the helper doesn't bottom out,
11. Or tend to let up the pedal, surprised...
12. And that can suck air back into the line.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 06-03-2004, 10:52 AM
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Re: MC Break concern

</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
12. And that can suck air back into the line.

[/ QUOTE ]
I have a jar that I put a tube into, half fill jar with brake fluid, submerge tube in fluid. Then do the pump thing. Keeps any air from getting sucked back up into the line. How do you use your "Mighty Vac" when bleeding your brakes...I've heard of it being used and only taking one person to do the brakes...but never heard how.

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 06-03-2004, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Re: MC Break concern

Thanks for the great reply LEVE. Knowing that I will not have to take the MC out is good. That will give me boost I need to move forward with the project. This weekend will be total break system demo.
I think when the time comes to bleed the breaks. I will get a hand vac. I have heard they make the job much easier.
Thanks for the help.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 06-03-2004, 11:49 AM
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Re: MC Break concern

1. Try reading this...

2. It beats reading my verbiage.
3. IMHO...it's a great tool,
4. The article calls it "cheap",
5. It's far from that!
6. I paid $30 on sale for it...
7. IMHO.. that wasn't cheap.
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 06-03-2004, 11:51 AM
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Re: MC Break concern

How do you use your "Mighty Vac" when bleeding your brakes...

You hook up the vac pump to the open bleeder screw and pull the fluid and air thru it into the attached reservoir until there are no more bubbles.......waaaayyyyyy simpler
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 06-03-2004, 02:16 PM
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Re: MC Break concern

Thanks for the article LEVE. I've had a "Mighty Vac" for several years...not sure why I even bought it now...but now I know what I can do with it...The Lovely Jeep Wife will be overjoyed the next time "we" have to do the brakes.
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